Washington Cascades
July 2010 - Trip Report
Guides: Peg Abbott and Woody Wheeler
Local Hosts: Don & Jan Allen with thirteen participants

 

July 10 Arrival / Whidbey Island
Bob and Liz arrived early to the Seattle area and helped Peg collect the vans, enjoying lunch at a fun local place downtown. Our arrival city was Seattle, and despite Peg’s long-distance driving from the car rental place (having taken a wrong turn!) and Roberta’s plane delay, we were soon on our way. Mel McAnany helped drive our mini-van until Woody would meet us later in the trip, and added her enthusiasm for birding, thanks Bob, Liz and Mel!

This trip was a new Naturalist Journey’s adventure and it drew many of our long-time regular clients. This was thus a lively arrival day with much catch-up conversation and anticipation of a wonderful week ahead.  We took a ferry over to the island, and then drove about two thirds of the way across it to the fishing village of Coupeville, where our lodgings were just a block from the wharf.  Pat walked out onto her patio above colorful gardens and smiled – glad to be here at last. Jean and Mel started birding in earnest, garnishing views of Golden-crowned Sparrows, our only of the trip and with luck Peg has seen them too. Don and Jan met us after we settled in, and led us down to the wharf and to an Asian restaurant perched over it for good food and good fun. A local conservation group had a series of educational posters about species we hoped to see, and full skeletons of seals and dolphins. It was wonderful to wander a bit through town, smelling the salt spray and listening to sounds of gulls on the wing as we watched the sun go down.

July 11-12 Wonderful Whidbey Island
We enjoyed our two full days to explore Whidbey Island, which we enjoyed immensely – so much that I think many of the group will return. The island is varied from lush forest to rolling open fields. We started our first morning with a dramatic five-mile loop hike above and then along the coast. Views of the Straits of Juan de Fuca and the distant Olympic Mountains were sublime. It was windy, Jean pulled out her mittens and below us, and boats were tossing in the surf. Along the beach, Bob spotted a River Otter and knew immediately it was NOT a Harbor Seal, which we had also seen near Coupeville, by the long tail. We watched it move fluidly through the waves until it was out of site.  We picked up stones, admired wildflowers, met Warbling Vireos and an Orange-crowned Warbler up close and personal and had a challenging, but rewarding hike. Luckily, Ralph had an ample supply of chocolate to keep us going.

With these miles under our feet, we were content to sightsee and learn more about the island’s history at the Fort, and while driving around the farms. Don and Jan, our local hosts, were a font of information and made our stay so personal.  There was not a turn in the road they couldn’t pull out a story for and we were all ears.  We got to know the geography, learned about mussel farming, tried two great lunch places and in view of the ocean, dined on Jan’s amazing homemade berry pies.

Peg and Mel scouted out some birding areas, and over the course of our days we found Harlequin Ducks, Surf and White-winged Scoters, Hooded Mergansers and Marbled Murrelets.  At Deception Pass we found the Pigeon Guillemots sitting on nests, tucked in lichen-clad rocks within the spray zone off the ocean.  Another highlight was watching a pair of Bald Eagles courting on a branch, perched above a quiet cove. We were the only ones there and felt we were interrupting a quiet moment between them!  One of our best birding areas was right in Don and Jan’s yard. Among the beauty of their gardens and groves of rhododendrons and azaleas we had super looks at Downy Woodpeckers, Red-breasted Nuthatch, California Quail and Chestnut-backed Chickadees.  At Crockett Lake we found a few shorebirds starting to move through and had great looks at a Northern Harrier coursing over the reeds.  Pelagic Cormorants were perched on pilings across from Crockett Lake and on the outer coast; we had fun when a flock of Black Oystercatchers flew in close enough for us to spot the browner youngsters which were making such a racket. 

Dining on the island was fun. We had our breakfast at the Inn, lunches in local restaurants and two more nights to try the islands restaurants. Ralph and Regina tried the local pub so they could watch the final world cup soccer game where Spain was victorious.  Peg chose Christopher’s for the group meal, and here we experienced a long wait (good thing we had good company!), but delicious dinner. On the third night everyone scattered for a free night to sample island seafood and other delights.

July 13 Deception Pass / Rockport State Park / North Cascades Highway / Mazama
We covered some ground today as we left the island, stopping across the Deception Pass Bridge for scenic views and a different perspective than we’d had from the ground earlier in the week. A Bald Eagle flew over as we watched the current pour under the bridge at a stiff rate, churning the waters which attract feeding Cassin’s Auklets and Pigeon Guillemots. We crossed back to the mainland by bridge, drove through agricultural areas of the lush Skagit Valley, and stopped for one of the highlights of the trip, a walk with Woody through some of the most beautiful ancient forest imaginable. This remarkable temperate rain forest boasted 3-500 year-old Douglas-fir, Western Hemlock and Western Red Cedar, complete with a lush understory of Sword and Deer Fern, Salal, Red Elderberry , Hazelnut and at least three species of wild edible berries.  We discussed ethno-botany of species like Yew and Cascara from which important medicines have been derived that are still in use today. We had our picnic under impossibly tall trees, then made the loop walk, asking many questions about the understory, age of trees, dynamics of the forest and more. The area had a wonderful feel, lush, inviting and cool. It exemplified a classic old-growth forest with both living and decomposing elements.  It’s peaceful yet majestic nature moved all of us. Afterward, we just had to stop for ice cream and berries at a favorite local farm stand, yum!  Fortified, we began our ascent of the North Cascades Highway, which runs through the heart of North Cascades National Park. We stopped to orient ourselves and pick up books at the National Park Visitor Center, which has some good exhibits on plant life and geology, and a boardwalk trail where one can test their birding skills. We had time for a walk to Rainy Lake, a beautiful gem surrounded by steep walls of glacial carved peaks.

July 14 Beaver Ponds / Sun Mountain Resort / Washington Pass in search of Woodpeckers
Woody and Peg led an early morning bird walk and we were thrilled to find Cedar Waxwings in abundance, along with Red Crossbills, Evening Grosbeaks, Pine Siskins and Cassin’s Finches. On the high cliffs above the lodge Woody spied a Black Swift as he waited for us, but we did not find it again.  The Evening Grosbeaks were bold and noisy and engrossed in eating berries. We returned to breakfast in the cozy dining room, with sun pouring in and a view of the pond.  After breakfast, Woody was eager to show us how different the East Side ecology of the Cascades was from that we saw the previous day and we all enjoyed a loop hike around an area of extensive Beaver Ponds. From all points of view we could watch the antics of a pair of Osprey attending their young on a nest stretched out high above the water.  We had great views of Red-naped Sapsucker, found several gorgeous Western Tanagers and Nashville, Yellow and Wilson’s warblers. Mimi found a noisy flock of Pygmy Nuthatches which came in close for our inspection. We had perfect weather and a break from the heat of the last days as we walked for much of the morning.

We had lunch at the Sun Mountain Resort, out on the deck – pretty fine!  En route we had great looks at a grouse, but had to draw out our field guides as this is the overlap for Dusky and Sooty, two species formerly one and known as Blue Grouse. Here in the sagebrush we had Dusky, thankfully a very tame one that barely moved off the road. The following day, going to Hart’s Pass we’d find Sooty, making for excellent comparison.

After lunch we returned to the lodge, where several indulged themselves in what they came for – vacation!  This was such a nice spot it was hard to pry yourself away. But several of us were on a mission, to find that elusive Three-toed Woodpecker atop Washington Pass, 5477 ft.  We had a great time and very good luck, finding the bird readily at the picnic area. We watched it pull bark from the trees and heard its rat-tat-tat call several times. We also found a beautiful pair of Pine Grosbeaks that came down from the trees to drink at a water spigot, affording us super views. It was windy late in the day with a chill in the air. With views of jagged high peaks and glaciers around us, we know we were in the mountains!   Dinner called, and we joined our other comrades for an excellent meal back at the Freestone inn.

July 15 Hart’s Pass / Winthrop
Today’s adventures seemed like a beautiful, continuous celebration of wildflowers. We picked up local friend and adventurer Cathy Paprocki at her log home tucked along the Methow River, watched both Calliope and Rufous hummingbirds at her feeders, and we were soon winding our way up to Hart’s Pass. Winding is the operative word for this route that would take us to the highest point in Washington State that one can drive.  We drove alongside a steep canyon with dramatic views, including that of a large recent burn across the wide, U-shaped glacier-carved valley. On our uphill side we had a kaleidoscope of color from Indian Paintbrush, Purple Monkey flower, Silky Phacelia, and various penstemons, louseworts and more.  We checked the Goat Wall area for activity but had not goats seeking minerals today. We stopped to listen and search for a few birds, and once in the high country we took a left hand turn, visiting a moonscape left by a fire that swept through the Meadows campground for a much needed pit stop. Clark’s Nutcrackers entertained us here. We then walked through forested areas of Western Larch and other conifers, past snowfields to reach a grand view and an access point to the Pacific Crest Trail.  We found Hermit and Varied Thrushes, and in the more open areas, brilliant Mountain Bluebirds.  Here we were only about 20 miles from the Canadian border!  We had to stretch our legs and celebrate the view of peak after peak from the second viewpoint, which starts at over 6000 ft. elevation.  We walked for about an hour, among twisted wind-swept trees but there was just too much snow to continue to the Slate Creek fire lookout in the time we had, so we contented ourselves to return slowly, stopping again in several fields of flowers.  Tonight was a free night for dinner.  Several went in to town to try some of the local restaurants and others chose to stay for another night of delicious fare and delightful ambiance at in the high-ceiling, log constructed dining room of our Inn.

July 16 Methow River Valley
Under watchful eyes and alert ears of Mule Deer along the roadside, we descended the Methow River Valley in the early morning from Mazama to Pateros, where the Methow meets the Columbia River.  We continued our way on the Cascade Loop. Below Twisp, the geography and climate changed abruptly.  We left the Montane pine forest behind, and entered a brown-toned world of irrigated fruit orchards, steep basalt canyons, shrub-steppe vegetation and 95-degree temperatures.

Seeking a cooler alternative to the Columbia Basin in July, we boarded the Lady of the Lake ferry in Chelan to journey the length of the fjord-like Lake Chelan.  At 1,486 feet deep, Chelan is the third largest lake in the United States after Crater Lake and Lake Tahoe.  Our ferry passed by active Osprey nests and 8,000 foot high glacial-carved ridges as we re-entered North Cascades Natural Park.  We exited the ferry for a brief visit to the tiny (population 95) town of Stehekin, a quaint mountain hamlet with a park visitor center, a few shops and inns.   Don and Ralph hauled the big cooler up a hill to our picnic site only to discover that the site was occupied…by a six-point buck Mule Deer!  After everyone in the group had a chance to admire him, the buck departed, allowing us to enjoy our lunch of fresh sandwiches and baked goods from the Twisp bakery, complemented by locally grown cherries.   Soon afterward we rode the ferry back to the town of Chelan and resumed our van trip to Leavenworth.

Appropriately for a hot July day, we visited the Entiat Fire Education center where we took a brief walk to a former lookout tower on an interpretive trail focused on natural history and fire ecology.  We’d had only brief looks at Lewis’ Woodpeckers in Winthrop and hoped for more sightings here near the burn. Next we stopped along the Entiat River where we spotted Western Kingbirds, Northern Rough-winged and Tree Swallows, and Common Mergansers with their young floating rapidly downstream.  From here we drove south to the apple “capitol” city of Wenatchee at the confluence of the Columbia and Wenatchee rivers.  At this point we followed the Wenatchee River upstream (west) to the Bavarian-themed town of Leavenworth nestled against the scenic backdrop of the Cascade Mountains.  There we spent the final two nights of our trip and explored the town’s shops and restaurants to the sounds of accordion music, yodeling, and rushing water in the streams below.  After our time in the wilds this was admittedly a bit touristic for our crowd, and we looked forward to the next day’s return to nature! 

July 17 Leavenworth Fish Hatchery / Sleeping Lady Resort / a Grand Finale
An intrepid group of early birders went for a pre-breakfast walk near the Leavenworth Fish Hatchery.  Once we crossed Icicle Creek and left the hatchery behind, the area opened up to a splendid Ponderosa Pine woodland meadow rimmed by lush riparian vegetation and framed by spectacular views of the Cascade Mountains.   While standing atop a foot bridge over a clear, rushing channel, we enjoyed an unusually close encounter with our first American Dipper.

The rest of the group joined us after breakfast on a birding/art tour of Sleeping Lady Resort – a unique eco-friendly resort with green buildings and native plant landscaping enhanced by works of art from renowned local artists Dale Chihuly and Tony Angell.   Although we searched in vain for the elusive White-headed Woodpecker that had recently departed its nest carved into Sleeping Lady’s dining hall, we were entertained by Osprey and Common Merganser above and in the lovely riffles of Icicle Creek. Clark’s Nutcrackers called to us in raspy tones from the tops of pine trees.   Regina received a personal visit from a Clark’s Nutcracker feeding one of its young on the ground only a few feet away from her!

In the afternoon, some opted to explore the town of Leavenworth, while others headed up Icicle Creek to hike the gorge trail.  On the way, Mel and Woody had a brief and very exciting look at what was likely a Northern Goshawk.  Peg tried to call it back with the help of her iPod, but it did not return.   Once on the trail, we had excellent looks at MacGillivray’s Warbler, Warbling Vireo, Western Tanager and Yellow-rumped Warbler.  But the show-stopper was when a Golden-crowned Kinglet raised its golden crown to a flashy prominence, which was absolutely stunning!

We tried again to find White-headed Woodpeckers, but young had left the nest and we were not successful and not seeing this species would be our invitation to return.  Our final dinner was a sumptuous feast at Sleeping Lady resort where a gourmet chef prepared a buffet of fresh salmon, organic greens from the nearby garden and multiple desserts topped with locally-grown berries.  The gourmet food was further enhanced by views of Icicle Creek and various works of art.

July 18 Homeward Bound
Prior to driving back to Seattle, we took one last early birding and natural history walk in Waterfront Park, just behind downtown Leavenworth where Icicle Creek meets the Wenatchee River.  This outstanding riparian corridor with huge Black Cottonwood trees includes several islands connected by pedestrian bridges.  The haunting song of the Veery welcomed us soon after we entered the park as they moved as a family though the Cottonwood canopy.  Gray Catbirds sang from highly visible perches in the Willows and Blue Elderberry.  We took a group photo along the Wenatchee River in what Peg described as a classic Northwest river scene. 

On the drive back to Seattle, we passed by Tumwater Canyon, a raging class five white-water river.  Our return route took us over Stevens Pass and down the lushly-forested Skykomish River watershed.  We said farewell to Don and Janet and thanked them for their luggage hauling, botanical observations (Jan), local history and knowledge (Don) and good-natured companionship.  Upon entering the Seattle metropolitan area, Betty spotted a soaring Red-tailed Hawk and Mel saw an Osprey perched on the Evergreen Floating bridge.  When we dropped Woody at his house, an Anna’s Hummingbird came to his feeder, and we all fed on his bumper Raspberry crop.  Seattle was a refreshing 70 degrees – a cool respite before returning to our respective destinations that were on average 20 degrees hotter.

We will all savor memories of the islands, mountains, forests, coastal beauty, 125 species of birds, five species of fauna, and more wildflowers, plants and trees that we could count in the Evergreen State. 

 

Photo Credits
Deception Island Bridge, Peg and Jean Hart's Pass, Woody offering toast, Peg & Woody and Jan's Berry Pie, Ralph Anavy; Ancient forest hike, group photo, Group Lake Chelan and Barrow's Goldeneyes, Woody Wheeler; Ebey's Landing Hike, Ebey's Landing View, Ralph & Regina snow, fish sculptures and Don & Jan's Garden, Peg Abbott.

 

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