Anza Borrego and Baja
Nov. 8-17, 2007 - Trip Report
Greg Smith, Guide with six participants

Thurs., Nov. 8 Arrival in San Diego / Torrey Pines
After getting together at the Old Town Marriott we took a short drive north to California State Parks’ Torrey Pines State Preserve. We stopped at the Visitor Center, and then took a short one-mile hike out to Razor Point. This trail winds its way through arrested sand dunes that provide the habitat for one of the two populations of the very rare Torrey Pine. This tree’s distribution has always been limited, and as such, any molestation of this tree as far back as 1860 warranted a $100 fine.

The effects of less than three inches of rain in the last 20 months were evident on most of the drought adapted plant species. Lots of these plants showed severe desiccation that only a drenching rain would cure. The Torrey pine seemed to stand mute to the conditions, seemingly belying the fact that it was anything less than tolerant.

Another short hike took us thru the Guy Fleming Forest where gnarled trees were pushed down by the prevailing NW winds. Most Toyon were without berries, likely because of the drought. Only trees under the drip line of the pines and those along side the paved road had berries, most likely from the additional water.

We finished the day with an outstanding meal at the Café Pacifica seafood restaurant! Then a slow walk back to the hotel for a much needed long night of rest.

Fri., Nov. 9 Tijuana River Estuary / Mountain Pass Palms
After a quick water stop in Chula Vista, we headed south to the Tijuana River Estuarine Research Reserve. Here the river is home to five endangered birds and is the only significant estuary south of Morro Bay on the coast of California. From the Visitor Center we could see the Tijuana bull-fighting ring on the hills opposite the estuary. We were that close…

Two of the endangered species, Belding’s Savannah Sparrow and California Brown Pelican, put in appearances, as did a buoyant female Northern Harrier and two different species of egrets. It was interesting to see drought-stressed cactus leaning off the edges of channels filled with salt water.

Next we headed to the east, chasing the sun as it bounced between drizzle-laden clouds. We found Anza Borrego in broken clouds as we headed to the Mountain Pass palm groves. A hike up canyon introduced us to the local residents. Some dressed in full length skirts while other appeared singed from previous years. It was just amazing to see these lush green candle-like trees adjacent to the water-starved hills!

A 50-minute drive to Borrego Springs took us through sun enriched cactus gardens with a black sky background. Stunning!!!

Sat., Nov. 10 Hellhole Canyon / Borrego Palm Canyon
After a hearty breakfast we made the long 7000’ drive to the Hellhole Canyon trailhead. Not another person in the parking lot and we didn’t see anyone on the trail until we were halfway back from the palms up top.

The hike started across an alluvial fan coming from the canyon. The sides of the canyon got steep and we started boulder hopping to the palms. After three miles we made it to the middle of the palms and had magnificent views of the valley and the mountains beyond.

Next we headed to the outstanding Visitor Center at the park. Buried deep in the ground, the roof has been completely planted with native plants. Great architectural design!

Our afternoon hike took us up Borrego Palms Canyon. A fire just after the turn of the century was followed by extreme rains. The resulting flood crested a ten-foot high wall of water that wiped out hundreds of California fan palms. What was left of their trunks was scattered over ground like so much flotsam on a non-existent beach.

We made it to just below the remaining palms when Joan located four desert bighorn sheep high on the ridge. On the way out, a solitary ewe was silhouetted against the sky. It was near dark when we returned to the car after a great day of hikes!!!

Sun., Nov. 11 Mortreros & Pictographs / Hellhole Overlook
There was a promise of rain on today’s weather report, well at least a 30% chance. For a desert that had had only .73” in the last year, that was a welcome prediction.

We started off with a drive over to Blair Valley and worked our way into the backcountry. Our goal was to hike into two Native American sites, one home site and one potential ceremonial site.

The Mortreros was a home site with well over 50 bedrock mortars ground into the large granite boulders. They ranged in size from golf ball to almost football. They were scattered in the characteristic manner that provided a view with shade.

We proceeded down canyon, boulder hopping and making our way along a wash that had outstanding cactus gardens and a view of the valley at the end. Our hike back up was into a cloud formation known as lenticular. By the time we got back to the car the cloud had formed into five out of ten for classic form. It disappeared completely before we drove to the pictograph site 1.5 miles away.

The pictographs were a short mile hike up another canyon to the north. They were an ochre color and had rattlesnake, sun and other symbols. It is always interesting to interpret what we see, and everyone had a different perspective.

After lunch at Kendall’s we hopped back in the van and headed eight miles up S22 to the parking area for the Hellhole Overlook. The clouds that did not deliver rain, did deliver incredible light on the cactus and giant granite boulders. We hiked with the sun at our back as everything was lit up by the sweet light, but with dark foreboding clouds in the background. And then there was the view: an outstanding vista with the canyon below and the valley in the background!

Mon., Nov. 12 Rancho Cuyamaca / Old Town
A few of us went over to the Anza Borrego Visitor Center prior to breakfast to look for Gambel’s Quail. We went to the roof overlook and watched both Gambel’s and California Quail come to the pupfish pond for a drink – excellent looks. And a coyote serenade accompanied the view!

We drove up into the mountains west of the park on our way to Rancho Cuyamaca State Park. The drive took us through areas recovering from the horrific 2003 fire that destroyed so many resources. It was interesting to see just how minimal the recovery has been. The drive also took us through some of the areas burned just two weeks ago in those fires that were driven by 100+ m.p.h. winds.

We decided to do a short three-mile loop hike at the Paso Picacho Campground in RCSP. Or at least that was what the sign stated. We took our time walking through forests that burned four years ago. The grasslands were in great shape but most of the trees were dead sentinels. It made for easy birding and we got great looks at Acorn Woodpecker, Mountain Chickadee and White-breasted Nuthatch.

Two hours later we were all wondering how a three-mile hike could take two hours. After reading some of the signs on the loop trail, we determined that the hike was actually five miles, not the three stated at the trailhead. We all agreed that the extra two miles only made the hike that much better!

Tues., Nov. 13 Flight to Loreto / Danzante
An early morning departure into a crystal clear San Diego morning got us underway to Los Angeles. A smooth flight and an early arrival into LAX gave us time to take a hike to the Tom Bradley International Terminal and back. From there it was breakfast at the California Pizza Kitchen where most of us enjoyed a breakfast calzone with “Canadian” bacon!

Our flight to Loreto was smooth and uneventful. Immigration and Customs was a breeze matching the cooling feel of the onshore wind. Thirty minutes later we arrived at Danzante where the bluest bay provided the base for the rugged offshore pinnacles. The collective sigh as everyone settled into his or her views was audible!

Dinner was fresh sea bass in a Vera Cruz sauce with olives, onions and tomatoes. That was immediately followed by fresh mango cheesecake. The night was so black and so quiet; the only sound audible was the waves lapping gently on the sand beach. Sleep came early to all…

Wed., Nov. 14 Saddle Hike / Kayaking
After a breakfast of fresh fruit, pan and avocado omelets we headed off on our first hike with our guide Jorge. This trail followed different washes winding their way down the raw sides of these young mountains. Evidence of the 17 inches of rain (in six hours!!!) during the October hurricane was everywhere as the desert at Danzante was green.

A flowering San Miguel Colorado was home to tan adult male Xantu’s Hummingbird, a Baja endemic. The goal for the hike was a saddle that overlooked the Sea of Cortez to the south. An outstanding view as stated by all!

Lunch was a tortilla soup with queso, avocado and cucumber. Siesta followed and then it was time to hit the water! Six of us got acquainted with the kayaks and personal flotation devices and off we went across the bay.

The water was crystal clear as we glided over the glassy surface. A Reddish Egret danced in front of us as we glided to the shore. An Osprey called overhead as Magnificent Frigatebirds floated away. Everyone seemed comfortable on the water as we paddled back to the other side of the bay.

Happy hour margaritas with homemade tortilla chips and salsa (outstanding salsa!) were followed by a dinner of very tasty chicken tostadas! This was only surpassed by a flan that had the perfect caramel sauce. For the second night in a row, the lights were out by nine and the waves held their nightly appointment.

Thurs., Nov. 15 Marine Seafari / Kayaking
This morning the sea was as calm as the previous days and it was decided that it was the perfect day for our marine safari. We climbed into two pangas with our guides Jorge and Luis.

We boated out to one of the offshore rocks where nested Brown and Blue-footed Boobys shared space with Double-crested Cormorants and Yellow-footed Gulls.

Next we were off to deep water to look for ballenas (whales). We were lucky enough to see one Sei Whale fairly close before we headed off to a hidden cove for snorkeling and shade.

Karen gave folks lessons on the best way to snorkel and see fish and see fish they did. From puffers to sea bass to King Angelfish, the fish were everywhere! And then there were the colors…

The other highlight of the seafari was that most folks got to see a flying Manta Ray! These large black and white rays launch themselves completely out of the water for reasons unknown. A rare treat!

After a lunch of shrimp and fish soup and the required siesta, we gathered down at the beach for an afternoon of kayaking. After making a beeline for the point we started to round the rocky pinnacle. Opps, the wind was much stiffer on the “other” side, so we ducked behind the point and paddled down the south shore watching for the Reddish Egret and the American Oystercatcher we spotted on the first day at Danzante.

Margaritas were followed by an outstanding meal of fresh sea bass that was caught by one of the resort guests that afternoon. Dessert was an apple crisp followed by the obligatory 9 PM bedtime!

Fri., Nov. 16 Tecomaja Canyon / Goodbye Dinner
Our guide Jorge had us loaded into the Suburban by 9AM for our 30-minute drive to Tecomaja Canyon. The canyon is located on a private ranch and is about five kilometers off of the highway.

The drive ended where the water in the canyon started. Pools of crystal clear water with ranitas (juvenile Red-spotted toads – Bufo punctatus) greeted us on this hot day.

The canyon was lined with Palo Blanco (white tree) until we got to the more narrow sections. Here we found beautiful palms lining the river as we waded in water up to our hips. The further up the canyon we got the deeper the pools, so deep that we all stripped down to or swim suits and swam thru a 20-foot pool. The only way to finish the crossing was to climb the ten-foot ladder (Jorge carried this all the way up from the vehicle!) up the falls on the other side.

We continued our hike up the canyon as it narrowed even more with century-worn storm water. We were now in the territory of the giant higuera (fig) trees. These are the trees with the massive root systems that crawl through the exposed cracks found in the narrow canyon walls. Aerial roots dripped from the trees as we had reached the end of our hike. The hike of the trip according to everyone!

We returned at two for a lunch of chicken empanadas: a pastry filled with chicken and onions in a light red sauce. Exactly what was needed after such a great hike. The plan had been to go snorkeling, but the siesta was waiting and after that a beach walk.

Our final meal at Danzante was carne asada. This was our night to find the exploding comet, which was seen below Cassiopeia in all her splendor. The moon was getting brighter as it grew in size, but set early enough to allow us to visually see the comet.

Bed came a little later as this was our last night, but the waves were there and so were the stars as we all retired.

Sat., Nov. 17 Flights Home
It was a leisurely morning as we started with huevos rancheros, Sunnyside up eggs covered with a delicious ranchero sauce. Then we all took the time for one last beach walk or siesta before heading off to the Loreto airport. Everyone was very relaxed, but also ready to head home to their own beds after a 44 miles of hiking the deserts on the west side of the continent.

Photos by: Greg Smith

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