MEXICO'S EL CIELO/TAMAULIPAS REGION
April 13-20, 2008 - Trip Report
Guides Tony Beck and Bob Behrstock, with local guide Estaban Berrones and 4 participants

Sun., April 13 McAllen / Rio Corona / Gomez Farías
It was a nice sunny morning for our short drive to the McAllen Airport where we were greeted by a Tropical Kingbird singing in the parking lot. There, we met Saul-our Mexican ground agent from Turismante-and our driver Huicho. Crossing from Brownsville into Matamoros, we experienced no problems at the border. Once in Mexico, we immediately stopped at a pond to view American White Pelicans, Black-necked Stilts and cormorants. We proceeded southward through open, arid agricultural land planted with miles of sorghum fields, seeing a few rolling hills and mountains in the distance.

Our lunch stop at El Tenieblo provided some entertainment with its Mezcal Museum, art gallery and distillery. Continuing along the highway, we made our first birding stop at the Rio Corona - the northern limit of many Neotropical species. Here we found Social Flycatcher, Blue-Gray Gnatcatcher, Tropical Parula, Rose-throated Becard and Summer Tanager. Back on the highway, we continued southward, eventually turning west into the foothills of the Sierra Madre Oriental. Just before arriving in Gomez Farías, we stopped along the road to view a Bat Falcon perched on a utility pole. Returning later in the trip, we would see both members of the pair of these dainty black, white and orange falcons. Bonus birds here were Red-billed Pigeon, Brown Jay and Red-lored Parrot. Thicket Tinamou was heard calling nearby; its melancholy calls would accompany us for most of the trip. We arrived at Gomez Farías and checked into our hotel-the Posada Campestre. As the sun went down behind the mountains, we heard Melodious Blackbird, Black-throated Saltator and Clay-colored Robins.

Mon., April 14 El Cielo Biosphere Reserve / Alta Cima
The day began with a pre-dawn breakfast, at which we were joined by Esteban Berrones, local guide extraordinaire. Esteban had recently gotten a laser pointer and missed no opportunity to indicate a bird’s location with its green dot. It was cool and overcast as we headed westward along the road out of Gomez Farías. Some of the birds greeting us were Boat-billed Flycatcher, Green Jay, Altamira Oriole, White-crowned and Red-lored parrots and Melodious Blackbird. We then hopped into our safari truck (a modified Jeep) and ascended the bumpy road to the El Cielo Biosphere Reserve, making several stops en route. Along the way we found a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl—puffed out into a ball of feathers, Blue-crowned Motmot, Brown Jay, Yellow-billed Cacique, Masked Tityra, Audubon’s Oriole and Elegant Trogon. An Ornate Hawk-Eagle soared high above the mountains edge, but allowed us only brief views. We stopped at the village of Alta Cima for lunch, where we were able to purchase colorful embroidered shirts from the local co-op. Esteban stopped at his home where he was greeted by two of his children. Still cool and overcast, we lunched on salad and split corn tortillas filled with eggs, beans and vegetables. At the outskirts of town, we found Flame-colored and White-winged tanagers, Greater Pewee, dozens of Yellow-throated Euphonias, and an unusually large number of Black-headed Siskins. We heard the calls of a distant Mountain Trogon as it came to the forest edge and finally into view. Closer to the road, we saw Rufous-capped Warblers and a female Gray-collared Becard followed shortly by the male. We worked our way back downhill, making a few stops along the way. Esteban imitated Tamaulipas Pygmy-Owl to bring in scolding songbirds, and Bob called in Singing Quail. We arrived at the hotel for a late dinner. Afterwards, we had close looks at a Mottled Owl that perched in the trees outside our rooms.

Tues. Apr 15 Gomez Farías / Rio Frio / La Florida Night Birds
Again we began with an early breakfast, then proceeded to bird on what started as a cool and overcast day. Descending from Gomez Farías, we made several stops just outside town, seeing many of the same Mexican specialties including White-crowned Parrot, Blue-crowned Motmot, Masked Tityra, Brown Jay and Audubon’s Oriole. With persistence, we were rewarded with looks at a shy Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush. Scanning the hillsides, we found a Broad-winged Hawk perched in a bare tree. Locally, this species is less common than Roadside Hawk and was our only Broad-wing of the trip. We continued through plantations and second growth forest where many birds were singing. Highlights included Pale-billed Woodpecker, Indigo Bunting, and a lone Varied Bunting. One tall tree had a Rose-throated Becard nest. We saw the nest builders, as well as the less common Gray-collared Becard. Esteban heard a Collared Forest-Falcon and tried to bring it into view by imitating its voice. Although the raptor failed to materialize, his imitations coaxed several other species into the open, including: Elegant Trogon, Streaked Flycatcher and Rose-breasted Grosbeak. Getting scope views of several Gray Silky Flycatchers was a stroke of luck as these birds generally occur at higher elevations.

While driving past a culvert, we saw a Thicket Tinamou-uncharacteristically in plain view. In grassy fields and prickly-pear cactus plantation we saw several Yellow-faced Grassquits here near the northern edge of their range, Blue-black Grassquit, and both Ruddy and Common Ground-Doves. A short trail off the main road produced the trip’s only MacGillivray’s Warbler—never a common bird on the East slope. At a roadside pond we found and photographed Clay-colored and Lark sparrows and a couple of delightfully gaudy male Painted Buntings. We stopped for lunch at the La Azteca low water crossing on the Río Frio, enjoying looks at a Green Kingfisher and an Elegant Trogon. Although it was still overcast, the temperature was hot and the clouds were clearing. Butterflies, including swallowtails, morphos, heliconians, and crackers began to appear in full force. Further up the road, we found a Smoky-brown Woodpecker foraging in the scrub. Further still, we stopped to photograph a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl perched right over the road. After returning to our lodging, we visited the newest hotel in Gomez Farías, enjoying both our dinner and views of the expansive canyon just outside. We began our dinner watching Red-billed Pigeons and Yellow-winged Tanagers perched in a bare tree just outside the dining room. As we watched them, a Lesser Nighthawk flew by. After dinner we searched for nightbirds not too far away in open lowlands near Parque La Florida. We heard several Common Paruaques and tantalizingly close Vermiculated Screech-Owl. After some persistence, we finally heard and then saw a Northern Potoo perched on top of a utility pole.

Wed., Apr 16 La Florida / Bocatoma II / La Servilleta / Mante
The day began with our usual early start. This time we visited woodland and stream edge in the nearby lowlands. We stopped at Parque La Florida, a recreational area where mature trees line the banks of the Rio Frío. Although often crowded and noisy, we had La Florida all to ourselves with loads of birdies actively singing. We were surrounded by woodpeckers, tanagers, flycatchers, thrushes, warblers, vireos and orioles. Above us, a pair of Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers courted noisily, as did nearby Elegant Trogons. We walk a trail into drier scrub where Esteban found a lifer for himself – a White-bellied Wren. Military Macaws flew in the extreme distance, never giving us satisfying looks. We then made the short drive to Bocatoma II, a restaurant and fish farm where we would bird for the balance of the afternoon. As is generally the case, this spot was very birdy. Pygmy-owl imitations brought several birds into view, including yet another Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl. We watched in amazement as it was mobbed by a Rose-throated Becard, Elegant Trogon and Masked Tityra. Here also, we saw our first Green-breasted Mango, a splendid hummingbird with a decurved bill and a purple tail. At Bocatoma II, we boarded a motor boat for a mini jungle ride on the Rio Frío. This little aquatic adventure didn’t disappoint. We saw Bat Falcons, Boat-billed Heron, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Green and Ringed kingfishers, and several Muscovy Ducks. Highlights of the trip were a Northern Potoo roosting on a branch inside a shoreline tangle, and a female Sungrebe swimming near her nest. After the cruise, went ashore for a picnic lunch.

Departing Bocatoma II, we returned to our hotel to check out. We then visited an area referred to as La Servilleta—named after a nearby ranch. This village, its trails, and the adjacent lake are well known to birders and butterfliers. The sun was glaring, and the heat fairly intense. Nonetheless, we managed to coax birds out with Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl calls, attracting Squirrel Cuckoo, Masked Tityra and yet another Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl. With the sun shining, the butterflies, dragonflies and damselflies were coming out in full force. While Bob chased a very rare damselfly that was new for the state of Tamaulipas, the rest of the group ventured into a limestone canyon where we encountered more pygmy-owls being mobbed by songbirds. One brave Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet attacked one of the pygmy-owls. A welcome breeze blew through the canyon as we heard the cascading song of the Canyon Wren. We then checked into the Hotel Mante in Ciudad Mante, and had dinner at Saul’s restaurant-Club Campestre.

Thurs., Apr 17 Foothills of Sierra Madre / Ejido Gallitos / Laguna San Isidro / Mante
We got up early for breakfast and a long drive to the foothills of the Sierra Madre. We make a few birding stops along the way with one major stop at the community of Pueblo Francisco Medrano. Walking through the village, we found the locally uncommon Blue-gray Tanager, Azure-crowned Hummingbird, Canivet’s Emerald, Varied Bunting, Blue-crowned Motmot, White-crowned Parrots, and Orchard Oriole.

As we drove into the hills, we paused at an overlook where we could scope the valley and surrounding ridges. The Mexican landscape looked very dry but we continued to encounter birds. At the entrance road to Ejido Gallitos, we stopped at a picnic area beside a shrine. From here we walked along a shaded dirt road. A pair of stunning Elegant Euphonias, (formerly Blue-hooded Euphonia) was building a nest in a tree over the road. Further along, a tooting Tamaulipas Pygmy Owl attracted several birds including Spot-breasted Wren, Olive Sparrow, Crescent-chested and Golden-crowned warblers, and, best of all, a female Bumblebee Hummingbird (missed earlier at Alta Cima). We had lunch by the shrine where Bob called in several rather comical Spotted Wrens-a Mexican endemic. After lunch we continued a short distance westward to Laguna San Isidro—a lake surrounded by desert scrub. Here we saw species such as Vermilion Flycatcher, Bewick’s Wren and a surprise Lucifer Hummingbird-here at the very eastern margin of its range. Waterbirds were uncharacteristically sparse on the lagoon but included Spotted Sandpiper, a lone White-faced Ibis, Least Grebe, and Ruddy Duck. Then it was a long drive home with a few short stops en-route. That evening we enjoyed a filling dinner at Saul’s Club Campestre.

Fri., Apr 18 El Sabanito / Maguey de Oriente / El Meco / El Salto
The day began with our now characteristically early breakfast. Afterwards, we drove southward from Mante, turning westward into the state of San Luis Potosí. We made a quick stop at a roadside pond where we saw a variety of ducks including Mottled Duck (an uncommon bird in NE Mexico), Least and Pied-billed grebes and a Sora. We continued westward to El Sabanito where we viewed a colony of nesting Montezuma Oropendolas, here at the very northern edge of their range. During a short hike along the side road there, we saw many birds including Grayish Saltator and Gray-crowned Yellowthroat. We continued to Maguey de Oriente, where a short trail on one side of the road produced several warblers. A longer trail on the other side was also very productive with Rusty Sparrow, Cassin’s Kingbird and a point blank Greenish Elaenia. Returning to El Naranjo for lunch we managed several more bird sightings. Golden-fronted Woodpeckers were nesting in a tree hole on the property and were photographed by members of the group. After lunch we walked the entrance road where a little boy was kind enough to point out a roosting Mottled Owl—always a bonus during daylight hours. A male American Redstart flitting through the trees turned out to be another lifer for our guide Esteban—who has already seen a large proportion of the birds occurring in NE Mexico. We also saw a Black Phoebe feeding a recently fledged juvenile. Our next stop was the scenic waterfall at El Meco where clear water flows over limestone pools, the whole effect appearing intensely blue. We continued to the site of El Salto, a large waterfall now flowing through a huge pipe that generates hydro-electricity. At a nearby fish farm, we saw lots of butterflies and a few birds including a Western Tanager and several more Golden-crowned Warblers. Returning to the van, we encountered another Green-breasted Mango. Again, a tasty dinner at Club Campestre.

Sat., Apr 19 El Nacimiento / La Aguja / McAllen
We began the day with a slightly later breakfast as we had a short drive to the first birding location—a morning jaunt to El Nacimiento, an irrigation canal beside a sugar cane field. The waterway held Northern Jacanas, Least and Pied-billed grebes, and several species of large waders. White-collared Seedeaters were easily seen as they sang from sugar cane stalks, and a covey of Northern Bobwhite appeared, skulking through the grass on the other side of the canal. Both Tropical and Couch’s kingbirds were calling and easily separated by voice. We also saw Amazon and Ringed kingfishers as they hunted from trees overhanging the canal. At the small lake called La Aguja, we found Purple Gallinule, Common Moorhen, Green Kingfisher and Bare-throated Tiger-Heron. Bob called in an Altamira Yellowthroat, another Mexican endemic. Once again, a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl responded to imitations, bringing in the owl, and several other birds. A sub-adult Bare-throated Tiger-Heron—missed during our boat trip at Bocatoma II—posed for photos. On the way back to the van, Bob (keeper of the Tamaulipas dragonfly and damselfly list) found and photographed a lifer damselfly! Great joy! We then checked out of the hotel, bid a fond farewell to Esteban and Saul, and began our journey back to the US. The long drive was punctuated with sights of White-tailed, Swainson’s, and Red-tailed Hawks. We enjoyed our final meal at the Olive Garden in McAllen.

Dan & Jan Allen with guides Huicho and Esteban, Group birding, Falls at El Meco, Group picnic at Bocatoma II, Esteban on the walkway at El Meco by Robert Behrstock www.naturewideimages.com

Elegant Trogon by Lynn Feryus

Green Jay, Altamira Oriole, Blue-crowned Motmot, Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, Blue-gray Tanager, Least Grebe and Bat Falcon by Tony Beck

Artisan shots and close-up local guide Estaban birding by Peg Abbott

Close This Window