Glacier National Park
July 11-20, 2008
With a pre-trip extension to Nine Pipes National Wildlife Refuge and the National Bison Range  July 8-11

Peg Abbott, guide, with local hiking guide Mike Davies with 12 participants. 

Fri., July 11 Arrival in Montana / Lake MacDonald
Our adventure begins…Eight of our group returned to Kalispell today from a great pre-trip extension to the Mission Valley with wildlife watching at Nine Pipes National Wildlife Refuge and the National Bison Range.  We gathered with those arriving today for lunch in Whitefish, with some time for exploring this delightful mountain town. 

After lunch, Bob from Flathead Transport met us for the hour or so drive up to Lake MacDonald Lodge. 

After settling in, we met to walk what turned out to be a rather fragrant trail through to a scenic cascade.  Horses had left us all too many calling cards, but walking through the trees was lovely and a good test of our boots and gear.  We found lots of wildflowers as we returned along the sunlit road, rimmed by Black Cottonwood, Western Hemlock and Red Cedar.  Walter talked to the maitre d’ and arranged a great table for us up on a balcony of the restaurant just right for our group of 13.  We enjoyed one of our best meals of the trip at this lodge, an amiable start to the trip!  Walking back to the lodge, several of the group spotted a Red-naped Sapsucker; the next day they found newly fledged young sapsuckers at the nest tree.

We had a great time comparing notes at our welcome dinner, and enjoyed time to get acquainted before hand on the lodge porch, which looks over Lake MacDonald. 

Sat. July 12 Logan Pass / Bird Woman Falls / Avalanche Lake
What better way to start our exploration of Glacier than to drive up Logan Pass. This year, snows prevented the opening of this spectacular road until just a few days before our adventure!  We had to wait a short time for construction, but were soon past that zone and up to the viewpoint above the entire Lake MacDonald drainage.  A mature billy was the first Mountain Goat of our trip - right on the roadside, licking up mineral salts.  Soon we spotted females with young as well.

At the viewpoint we had a yearling that seemed a bit lost, but very curious about its human visitors.  The park service had not yet put up the viewpoint railings, so we gingerly stepped over the railings laid flat on the deck waiting assembly to take our photos.  We spotted an American Pipit on the edge of the snow and then ventured up to Logan Pass itself, where six Bighorn Sheep Rams sat majestically in the snow.  Glacier Lilies were poking their heads up everywhere, their buds coming right through thin layers of lingering snow.  In some places they were very thick – quite a contrast to the vast expanse still white with snow.  We took quite a few photos, looked off to our hiking route for the following day, then started down for Avalanche Lake and Trail of the Cedars. 

Mike, our Glacier Wilderness guide, put out quite a lunch spread on picnic tables at Avalanche Creek.  Looking up to the cliffs we spied Black Swifts, one actually coming low enough for our inspection.  Far less common than the Vaux’s Swifts we had spied on our pre-trip adventures, we were lucky to spot this larger and paler species.  We were itching to get out on the trail, and fully enjoyed the walk first through tall Western Hemlock / Red Cedar forest and then along a fast, running stream, past several cascades and up to the lake.  We found that first view of the lake to be extraordinary.  From rugged rock walls thousands of feet high around the lake, waterfalls issued down every cleft.  All were rushing; some broke through ice ledges and mounds of still frozen snow.   In between snow patches and rushing waterfalls there were green gardens sporting flowers –  a beautiful lush world to behold.  Everyone enjoyed sitting among winter’s castoff driftwood and the lakeshore’s abundant polished stones, with time to take in the beauty.  A pair of courting Barrow’s Goldeneye entertained us and Peg spotted a mature Golden Eagle hunting along the cliffs above.  Several of the group carried on around the lakeshore, taking in the views from several directions.  Others lounged on the lakeshore, soaking up warm sun as they were investigated by a curious Steller’s Jay. 

It was a full day and a nice return to our lodgings.  We enjoyed the details of this historic lodge, including some beautifully painted light fixtures.  We had time for those who wished to have a cocktail by the lake, and then gathered for dinner once again in our balcony.  After going over plans for the next day, we adjourned to our rooms for a good night’s rest.

Sun., July 13 Logan Pass / Hidden Lake / Jackson Overlook / St. Mary’s Falls / Many Glacier
What a lovely place to wake up.  This particular morning the lake was quite calm.  The historic ‘jammer’ buses were lined up for the day’s sightseeing.  En route to breakfast, several of our group spied the baby Red-naped Sapsucker in the same tree the adults had been spotted in the previous night.  Mike arrived at 8:30 and soon we were on our way, up and over Logan Pass, eventually on to our next lodgings at Many Glacier.  We offered a combination of two very different walks today, each about 3 1/2miles in length.  The first was at the top of the world, walking on snowpack up to the viewpoint of Hidden Lake.  What a different perspective to be out on pure snow, with views of Reynolds and Clements peaks, and the spiked ridge of the Garden Wall on the mountain edge opposing.  We all marveled  at Glacier Lilies, literally melting their way through ice crystals and soft snow at the edge of our route across snow.  A herd of Mountain Goats entertained the group, including a few frisky young of the year.  Mark captured photos of a Gray-crowned Rosy Finch, but mostly it was the landscape that held the group’s attention, especially heading back down across snow.  Linda went for broke and glacaded down on her heels; others helped each other by a chain of hands over slippery spots.  Walter opted for some private time in a lovely patch above treeline, where he observed Gray-crowned Rosy Finches for quite some time. 

Four of our group had elected not to try the snow clad trail and went with Peg to look for Harlequin Ducks at Fish Creek before ascending the pass on Going to the Sun Highway.  Earlier in the season they rested near the creek’s outlet to the lake, now they were likely off nesting or in the case of the males, replacing feathers.  We walked through lush Larch and Red Cedar forests, listening to the streaming calls of Winter Wrens and calling in a family group of Chestnut backed Chickadees.  Near Lake MacDonald we watched a mixed flock of Red Crossbills and Pine Siskins, then drove the magnificent curves of Going to the Sun Highway to join adventurous snow-hiking friends.

We rendezvoused at Jackson Overlook, but there were chagrined to smell smoking brakes on our Glacier Wilderness Guides van and at news that we needed to organize a rescue.  Luckily, from Jackson Overlook we could catch our planned second trail to St. Mary’s Falls, so Mike carried on with most of the group while Peg and a few others made a run to Rising Sun Motor Lodge and a phone. This hike through the forest was soothing and an easy one; views of the Falls and their resident American Dipper family provided more than ample reward for our efforts.  And rescue was soon on the way; Judith at the Glacier Wilderness guides office quickly arranged for a van and driver to switch ours out and within five minutes of the return of the hiking group we were all on our way  - WOW!

The Swiss style lodge perched on the lakeshore at Many Glacier provided a nice respite as evening settled.  The setting here is sublime, with mountains all around and, near dusk, pink mountain reflections.  On our arrival, some read the paper in the lobby, others made calls or caught up on journal notes.  A group of students working there for the summer presented a pre-dinner concert and around 7:00 we met in the dining room where we sampled dinner and dessert and enjoyed conversation.  Two of our group, Mary Kay and Betty Ann, had to leave the next day; this night we enjoyed their warm smiles and their shared love of life in full measure. 

Mon., July 14  Many Glacier / Iceberg Lake
We had a fine day for our hike to Iceberg Lake- bright sunshine and cool temperatures that lasted much of the day. The sign read 4.9 miles to our destination, and after an initial steep pitch up to an adjoining trail, our route was nicely graded; a steady uphill pitch that would net us some 1200ft. of elevation and result in stupendous views.  Best of all, our trail meandered through an abundant floral garden we discovered new species around every turn.  Pink spirea, Yellow Columbine, Lousewort and Lady’s Tresses, Larkspur and two types of saxifrage….  The birds were rascals and stayed mostly hidden but with some luck we glimpsed singing McGillivray’s Warblers and Golden crowed Kinglets.  Audubon’s Warblers with their bright yellow throats were a bit more cooperative and a male White-crowned Sparrow finely charmed us with a bold song display from atop a growing spruce.  We had a nice break and started in on our lunches at Ptarmigan Falls, a rushing torrent cut through deep red and dappled green mudstones known as the Grinnell Formation.  Wherever water draped over this rock, we found ourselves with cameras pointed down rather than up, trying to capture rock colors and textures etched out or laid down in the streams. 

We made great progress and by noon were eating the rest of our lunch on the shore of Iceberg Lake. We crossed a small moraine that hid views of the lake until the very end, suddenly there it was: half blue, half white, still gripped in ice with a large pile of new blue glacial ice backed up on the two color seam.  It resembled an arctic scene of pack ice drifted into pressure ridges.  Instead of seals and Polar Bears our delight was to watch three nimble Mountain Goat cross snow patches of the high cliff across from us. Earlier, we’d spotted them with the shadow of a marauding Golden Eagle crossing their path. The three had made a tight group, taking no chances even though this two month old youngster was growing bigger and bolder by the day.

We lingered at the lakeshore a long time, taking in the view, the sun, some of us testing the ice cold water with our toes.  Just shy of the lake we’d watched a band of a dozen or more bighorn sheep, where quite a few young rams made for quite a sighting. Three Mountain Goats grazed beside them, this year the slopes held so much grass that they, like the yearling Moose we’d seen walking up, were fat.  No Grizzllies sighted today (Peg had seen two on this trail two years previous) but a park ranger pointed out fresh diggings and two of their favorite foods, Glacier Lily and Spring Beauty, were at the peak of blooming.  Few of us will forget this marvelous day, walking among sunlit candles of blooming beargrass with a view of radiant cirque basins, jagged glacial carved walls and towering horns.  We returned in two shifts, happy to catch naps and/or showers, then relax in the massive lobby of the Inn, where views of our hike route, now with Many Glacier Lake to frame them, was pretty fine!

Tues., July 15 Bullhead Lake / Waterton
Today we enjoyed a totally delightful hike, one of moderate length and difficulty and full of flowers.  We started off looking for Moose at a small lake at the trail’s beginning and, while we did not find one here, we did spot a group of three Elk, including a calf born this spring.  Mark spied a Spotted Sandpiper with young chicks, alerted by the agitated call of the adult. 

We made good progress on the trail and took a break at Red Rock Falls, a small but beautiful falls where turquoise water cascades over iron-rich rock of the Grinnell Formation.  With delight we watched two adult American Dippers feeding young tucked up in a mossy nest nestled in a rock cleft.  They were close enough Linda could identify the macro-aquatic insects and we could all see the protective opaque membrane the dippers close over their eyes when entering rushing water.  They put on quite a show and we alternated commenting on that with snacking from our lunch bags.  Near the falls we found Beargrass, Pink Spirea, a yellow Senecio, sp. and Pink Monkeyflower in profusion;  the color display was amazing.  With some work, Peg and Walter pulled out a Veery, a Ruby-crowned Kinglet and a male MacGillivray’s Warbler all perched in small spruce trees along the trail as it approached the lake.  As we climbed a bit in elevation we found tall blue Forget-me-Nots, white Saxifrage and purplish asters in abundance.  There were dozens of wildflowers and only the show of a large Bull Moose with huge velvet antlers feeding on the near lakeshore rivaled them for our attentions.  This had to be our best Moose sighting ever. We could see every detail of its behavior as it fed, drank water, marked its territory, thrashed some shrubs and climbed up the hillside.  Ty, Mark and others got some great photographs – what a sight to behold.  We lingered quite awhile over the rest of our lunch; then the fast hikers went further around the lake as others began the walk back.  There was so much to admire on the macro and micro scale that we did not mind walking back on the same trail. We stopped to observe lichen gardens, rock textures and to scan for other wildlife. 

On arrival we had a cold drink at the trailhead store, and then started our drive north.

The drive to Waterton was striking, with marvelous views of Chief Mountain which keeps a rugged profile bracing the wind as it stands facing solo to the plains.  Peg tried to explain geology while gusts were howling upon us at the expansive viewpoint.   The cloud show was wild and the racing high clouds descended about the time we stopped for the Waterton Valley overlook.  Luckily the rains were brief, and entering Waterton we were able to stop at a wetland area where Black Terns were hovering while a pair of Sandhill Cranes fed in the marsh across from us.  They had painted their feathers a deep rust and, while we suspected they had a youngster, no one could find a chick in the lush tall grass as we watched through the scope.  We also found Song Sparrows, Common Yellowthroats and had a fly-by Killdeer and a calling Common Loon.  Then it was on to our digs at the venerable gingerbread wonder of a hotel atop the rock rim edging Waterton Lake.  We gathered for dinner in the beautiful dining room and shared a chuckle at their ‘vertical food’ presentation, particularly one person’s pork chop perched atop a double stack of potatoes and a sweet potato tarte…. 

Wed., July 16 Waterton Lakes National Park / Kootenay Lakes
Peg greeted a few in our group that wanted to go out birding on this fine morning.  We had about an hour and a half, which raced by as we tried various spots to sample the songbird fare.  In an open sagebrush area near the horse corrals, we found a bright Horned Lark posing on a lichen-clad rock and two Baird’s Sparrows.   A bright Yellow-rumped Warbler posed for us, while an Orange-crowned Warbler only dashed in and out of dense foliage for a very brief view.  Back at the marsh we had similar species but more time to try to photograph and observe them – Common Yellowthroats, Cedar Waxwings and Black Terns being the most cooperative.  We heard Belted Kingfishers and saw a Common Flicker, but all in all it was pretty quiet.  All too soon it was time to make a dash back to the boat dock, where we were due to meet the group to board the International for a ride down the length of Waterton Lake. What a delightful hour long trip, looking at tall peaks all around and details of the Belt Rocks geology.  Mount Cleveland at the far end of the lake is the park’s highest; in the distance we could see the beautiful glacier still covering the top of Mount Longfellow. 

We disembarked, cleared customs and started a mellow walk through lush spruce forests back to a set of wetland lakes.  We hoped to find Moose and our group was not disappointed - those that made it to the lake were able to have lunch in company of two large males and a female, splashing and feeding in the shallow waters.  Between the birds and the flowers there was much to observe: Pink Pyrola, Spotted Coral Root (an orchid), Bunch Berry and Twin Flower, just to name a few.  Peg and Walter pished in a Boreal Chickadee and got good views of Winter Wrens, a common songster of this dense forest.  A MacGillivray’s Warbler came in during a frenzy of activity in which Peg’s pishing brought in a young Gray Jay and a female Calliope Warbler.  While all this was going on, a flock of mixed Red and White-winged Crossbills flew in, Vaux’s Swifts were circling high overhead calling and two male Townsend’s Warblers put on a show.  It was a small bird explosion, after which lunch rivaled Moose for the birder’s priorities.  We all wanted to make the 2:25 boat back to have time to explore Waterton.  The fast hikers pushed on and made it just fine.  Phil and Linda, who had chosen a short but wonderful hike with the Park Ranger, had time to do that and to watch two River Otter on the lakeshore near the boat dock.  But four of us arrived in time to watch the boat pull out – ‘a bit early’ as the ranger said as he looked at his watch.  After the initial shock and a bit of suffering through a very cold rainstorm, they gave in to the spirit of adventure and Walter made a cheery fire to wait it out. Another good tale to trade when back home and comfortable again…) 

Back in Waterton at the beautiful Prince of Wales Hotel, Mike and Susan climbed up the Bear’s Nob for a fantastic view of the whole area while Linda and Mark enjoyed High Tea at the lodge, then climbed this rocky knob as well. On their way back, the latter two almost (literally!) ran into a large cinnamon colored Black Bear with her cub on the lawn of the Prince of Wales Hotel!  They backed off and then started a bear jam as others noted their presence – what a day!  Tonight was a free night and several ventured into town to sample the Bayshore or other local restaurants.  Des found an Internet café and Carol, Paul and Peg enjoyed the company of some friends from Portal who were also touring the area. 

Thurs., July 17 Wildlife Watching Waterton / Aster and Rockwell Falls of Two Medicine Lakes Area / East Glacier
This morning we drove up the Red Rock Road for some wildlife watching and scenery – just a quick up and back.  The flowers were magnificent. Open fields were stuffed with Wild Bergemot (magenta), Lupine (purple) a local daisy (white) and several composites (yellow).  The whole effect was that of a tapestry.  We could hardly lift our eyes to scan, but when we did, Linda quickly spotted the same family of bears she encountered at close range the night before, this time on a distant slope but not too far for good scope inspection.  We scoped for Elk and possible Grizzly Bears from the turn-around at the end of this park road but, not finding them, headed on to one last stop, a beautiful pond near the park entrance.  Here we had near-perfect reflections of the surrounding hills and good looks at Belted Kingfishers, Black Terns and a male Common Merganser.  The border crossing took about a half hour; Des and others photographed the markers noting the international boundary and more wildflowers.  Carol found the candy snacks which tided us over to lunch -- shared on the shores of Two Medicine Lake. 

Phil and Linda had to leave our group early today. We were glad they could join us for the first part of our hike, a lovely route up to Aster Falls, another rushing falls descending through steps of colorful rock, all rimmed by flower gardens to create a classic summer Glacier National Park scene.  Paul and Walter accompanied them back to East Glacier Lodge with our luggage to disperse to the rooms and the rest of us continued on to complete a seven mile round-trip walk, adding picturesque Rockwell Falls to the growing list of beautiful places we had seen.  En route, a Sora called from a wetland area. We found several new flowers in bloom and Peg and Carol spotted a Boreal Toad.  Susan was delighted to observe the jack-hammer behavior of a Northern Three-toed Woodpecker on its drumming post.  It was a mellow, nice hike, followed by dinner in the historic East Glacier Lodge. 

Next to our table massive 500 year old Douglas Fir trees held up this impressive log structure.  Antiques lined the mouth of a massive fireplace here, while at the other end of the lobby, a cheery fire crackled in the one they were still using.  The entry to this beautiful lodge is a long linear garden full of lupine and many northern perennials and two painted Totem Poles frame the front walkway. Carol and Susan eyed the swimming pool and made plans for the next day.  Several of us lingered on the west side porch after dinner as the sun went down, ending another grand day in Glacier.

Fri., July 18  Upper Two Medicine Lake
We woke to another beautiful bright-sun day, and headed up the Two Medicine Valley.  Mike had made delicious tabouli wraps for our lunch, so we packed up the extras and headed for the boat dock.  Walter spotted a Common Loon on the lake as we travelled. 

A local naturalist told us about the local trapper who married Sinopah, a Blackfoot woman, memorialized with Lone Walker, her father, in two prominent peaks.  The trapper’s Blackfoot name was Rising Wolf; these peaks inspired us throughout the day.  At Twin Falls, a short trail detour, we encountered a family of American Dippers.  Two very busy adults were feeding three young, their antics of begging and hopping were most entertaining.  We had lunch and became real lounge lizards on the shore of Two Medicine Lake, waking from our respective naps to take in the views.  On the return trip by boat Paul and Walter spotted Common Mergansers.  Several of the group hiked around the lake; Carol wanted to log the mileage as she was close to accomplishing 60 miles for her week here in Glacier. 

At 7:00 PM we met for some Mexican food and margaritas at a great Mexican food restaurant in the town of East Glacier – what fun! 

Sat., July 19  Marias Pass / Goat Lick / Rafting the Flathead River
This morning we packed up our gear, lingered a bit over breakfast and then headed over Marias Pass to the west side of the park.  Several Mountain Goats were licking natural mineral salts on the river side of ‘Goat Lick’ overlook. It was fascinating to watch them. Two were precariously perched on a steep incline above the river seemingly chewing up the soil.  Another group of goats rested high above the road on the north side of the road -- it was fun to see young kids. 

We enjoyed lunch at the office site of Glacier Wilderness Guides, where Mike changed hats to become our river guide. What a grand guide he was, patiently telling us when and how to paddle.  We navigated quite a few rapids and in some got thoroughly dowsed!  Walter and Paul took the front row seats where they took the brunt of the waves. We had a grand time on our final afternoon, floating in quiet spots in the company of Spotted Sandpipers and Common Mergansers with their young, then gripping the boat as we ran through rapids.  After the fun, we settled into our Kalispell hotel to repack and enjoyed a great last dinner in town.  Several of us recounted our highlights and we looked forward to sharing photographs and tales in the weeks to come.

Sun., July 20
Departures from Kalispell - good-byes…..

MANY THANKS to participant Mark Wetzel for these remarkable photos!!

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