Hawaii
October/November 2004
- Trip Report
Early
Arrivals Oahu
Many members of
our group arrived early, some as early as the 27th, and
it was fun for us to compare notes on their explorations. Alan and
Cathy had climbed Diamond Head and hiked to a beautiful waterfall,
in addition to seeing Pearl Harbor and the fantastic collections at
the Bishop Museum. Alex and Sandra toured the local Art Museum,
where they admired the scope and beauty of the collections, particularly
the Indonesian section. Several got in an ocean swim from our hotel’s
beach, and all loved the view Honolulu of at night, against the backdrop
of black, rainforest-clad hills.
Sat.,
Oct. 30 Arrival in Oahu / Welcome Dinner
Doug picked up
the remaining members of our group today at the Honolulu airport and
-- once all had settled at the Otani -- hosted the welcome dinner.
The weather turned this into a “progressive supper”: as
we enjoyed soup and salad outdoors, the skies grew dramatically black
and gray; then waiters quickly whisked us inside for the entrees as
the heavens opened. A clear introduction to how quickly it can rain
with force in Hawaii! Dinner was excellent and the company grand.
Sun.,
Oct. 31 Kuli’ou’ou Valley, James Campbell NWR / North
Coast
We started the
day with stacks of macadamia nut pancakes and coconut syrup (a few
refrained and had healthier fare…), then drove around the southeast
coast and up the Kuli’ou’ou Valley to work off our calories.
A hike was in order as we wanted to search for the elusive but charming
Oahu Elepaio. The trail was slick after last night’s rain, but
all did well navigating the path that wound between thick Lau‘ae
Ferns, fruiting Brazilian Pepper, massive Strawberry Guava (a
Eucalyptus relative), Hawaiian Hawthorn, Blackwood Acacia,
and more. Alex was happy to find a slug and a millipede with babies.
Doug spotted a mixed flock of Japanese White Eye and Red-billed Leothrix;
we had to work at it, but finally all got good looks. The White-rumped
Shamas were infinitely more cooperative, making lots of lovely
calls and flashing white tails like trogons as they flitted from tree
to tree, two males obviously interested in a female. One even
posed for photos with a background of lichen-covered trees.
With a
little help on the trail (thanks to Ken, Brad, Alan, and others) we
made it to a sylvan glade, where moss covered the stream-rounded volcanic
boulders and the tree canopy arched over our heads. A Red-vented Bulbul
sang for us, and Betty announced “I don’t have to see
any birds – it’s just so pretty!” No one complained
about a wait, but all were thrilled when Ken said “I’ve
got it!” Two, possibly three, Elepaio had worked their way down
the creek bed and were flitting between 20-foot Schefflera trees to
feed, putting on a good show.
Then it
was on to several scenic turn-outs; at one an artist was hard at work
on a bright canvas, trying to capture the amazing aqua tones of waves,
rich red of a cinder cone island, and intricate patterns of the immense
pali (cliffs) that lined this windward coast. Betty spotted two light-phase
Red-footed Booby just above the waves, gliding on long narrow wings.
Great Frigatebirds flew above us – what a day! And our timing
was superb, as we finished our picnic lunch just before the heavens
opened once again.
James Campbell
National Wildlife Refuge was the highlight of the day. We had a great
break in the weather at the start; and were immediately impressed
with the sight of numerous Bristle-thighed Curlews. They seemed to
pose so that we could determine, by scope just where those bristles
were. They called and flew about the marsh, along with Black-crowned
Night-Herons, scores of Pacific Golden Plover and about 200 Northern
Pintail. Among the pintail were Northern Shoveler, Ring-necked Duck,
Garganey, Eurasian Wigeon, and a Greater Scaup, which inspired a spirited
debate among the birders. Alex pointed out magenta egg cases on the
sedges, tadpoles, at least three species of dragonflies, and more.
Kent and Marcia spotted a small group of Orange-cheeked Waxbill. Rain
came down spiritedly as we rounded the bend; while several retreated
to shelter, others ventured on for looks at Sharp-tailed Sandpiper,
Wandering Tattler, Cackling Goose, and more. During this intermittent
rain, Gretchen spotted the first of several rainbows; the light show
returning to our vans was terrific. We then enjoyed a great dinner
at Jameson’s by the Sea. We had not prepared costumes for Halloween
(other than Alex with her fancy socks), but Doug reassured us it was
okay – we were going dressed as “drowned rats!”
Mon.,
Nov. 1 Tantalus-Roundtop Loop Road, Oahu / Kanaha Pond Wildlife Sanctuary,
Maui
We had the morning
to further explore Oahu before flying to Maui at 2:00 p.m. After fortifying
ourselves with fresh fruit and breakfast entrees such as macadamia
French toast, we loaded luggage and headed off. Doug took us past
‘Iolani Palace, the only royal palace in the U. S., and into
the Oahu cemetery, where Pacific Golden Plover found the headstones
a nice place to rest. A Northern Mockingbird was another find, and
dozens of Red-vented Bulbul sallied forth from the huge trees surrounding
the cemetery and the neighboring enclave of historic homes. Rose-ringed
Parakeet also gathered in these trees, and their noisy activity lured
Doug and a few others on to the lawn of one of the homes.
Up came
an obvious owner, asking just who we were. She turned out to be very
delightful, explaining that her grandparents were born in the first
home and she was in the second. She talked lovingly of the trees and
when they were planted; she also described how, after some 40 years,
her family’s view of the ocean was obscured by the first skyscrapers
of downtown Honolulu.
We then
drove the Tantalus-Roundtop Loop above the city –through wonderful,
thick agro-forests that Doug did a great job describing at our various
spots. He was excited to find a Fitchia, a tree endemic to Rarotonga,
in bloom, an introduced tree he had not seen before in Hawaii. At
several stops we had excellent looks at Oahu Amakhi, and we enjoyed
clear weather for the view from the top. Before us was the full crater
of Diamond Head, all of the city, another crater known as the Punchbowl,
and Pearl Harbor. We took advantage of the park’s picnic table
to assemble our lunch, and then were off to the airport, where Alex
masterminded the tickets for all.
After getting
our cars in Maui, we headed for two ponds to see what the wetlands
would hold. At Kanaha Pond State Sanctuary, we got scope views of
Black-crowned Night Heron in breeding plumage, a Hawaiian Coot showing
the red knob on it’s bill (Doug says only about 15% of the birds
in Hawaii show this), and a bright pair of Red-crested Cardinal. At
Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge, biologist Glennys Nakai greeted
us and described some recent good finds at the refuge. We walked the
dike system around the ponds, looking off to views of Maui’s
two huge volcanoes clothed in mist and cloud. It was a beautiful time
of day, with good lighting on Wandering Tattler, Sharp-tailed and
two Least Sandpipers. A White-faced Ibis, a vagrant from North America,
was a real surprise. Black-crowned Night Heron were everywhere; it
was strange to see so many, and not in the company of other herons
as is typical on the mainland. We got to Kula Lodge and Malu Manu
cabins after dark, so it was a little hair-raising to find our cabins
and navigate the road to the two little houses. Relaxing over a great
dinner in Kula Lodge’s wonderful dining room was a great end
to the day.
Tues.,
Nov. 2 TNC’s Waikamoi Preserve, Maui
Today’s
schedule included one of the highlights of the trip, a visit to the
Nature Conservancy’s Waikamoi Preserve – and it certainly
lived up to that promise! This preserve protects original forest on
the slopes of Haleakala Volcano. At Hosmer Grove, as we assembled
sandwiches to take on our hike, we met TNC staff member Deb
Anthony and two volunteers, Will and Kerry, who would be our
guides. The total hike was about three miles, but it included an 800-ft.
descent and return -- a challenge, but feasible at our birder’s
pace. Near an ancient Koa tree, now down on its side, Will discussed
the Hawaiian view of ecology and the concept of ‘ohana,
harmony, and family.
Soon we entered native forest, a complex tangle with a rich understory
of ferns, lichen, and moss. The branches of huge Ohia trees wove among
those of the smaller Koa and other native trees. Flocks of honeycreepers
kept us busy: with joy we spotted I’iwi, Apapane, Amakihi, Maui
Alauahio, and more. The boardwalk we had heard about turned out to
be a narrow set of planks crowned by chicken wire to keep us from
slipping. From it we could view the plants well, including an epiphytic
Peperomia and some rare ferns. Birding was a bit more of a challenge
on this linear path, and distant whistles of ‘Akohekohe could
not be pursued. Although Alan spotted the flowering Ohia tree that
was the likely magnet, Peg and Doug had only fleeting glimpses of
this bird, so we left it as “Heard Only” on our list.
So we were twice thrilled when Doug first heard a pair, and then we
got a fine view, of Maui Parrotbill while returning from the end platform.
We watched them poke and probe in the bark, using their bills as their
namesakes would to climb and to tear. They stuck close together and
(low and behold!) mated right there on the lichen-clad branches of
young Ohia trees. We couldn’t believe what we were able to see
– there are perhaps fewer than 1,000 of these birds in the world!
The beauty of the forest was sublime; there was so much to look at,
and Doug told us a lot about the native vegetation as we walked. In
the evening many of us were glued to the television at Malu Manu cabins,
awaiting the results of our 2004 Presidential elections. Jan served
us snacks, to calm those in their dismay.
Wed.,
Nov. 3 Maui Ocean Center / Haleakala National Park
Breakfast at Kula
Lodge, with its expansive views of the West Maui Volcano and the isthmus
of agricultural lands, is a wonderful experience. Our plan this morning
was to drive back through those farmlands down to the Maui Ocean Center.
Exhibits here mimic sea life in various zones of the ocean: our favorites
were the Unicorn Fish and the four-foot Hammerhead Shark. Alex loved
the jellyfish, which swam around in a cylinder of blue light; Sandra
reveled in the sense of calm when she had some of the exhibits to
herself. Judy remarked on the mood-setting music as we entered the
Polynesian room, where exhibits depicted early aquaculture and fishing
techniques. The Humpback Whale exhibit was interactive and fascinating
-- as was the curator of the Manta Ray display, who pointed out to
Jean and Betty the courtship behaviors of some decidedly amorous rays.
Doug, Gretchen,
and Ken went birding while others were in the center, picking up three
species for our list: a female Ruff, Pectoral Sandpiper, and Black-bellied
Plover. Two hours went quickly and the mountain was calling; so we
drove back up to our mountain home, stopping briefly for warm clothes
to take to Haleakala National Park.
Betty was
fascinated by the lack of trees as we climbed the grassy slopes below
the national park; it was sobering to realize that these slopes had
once been clad in native forest as beautiful as the one we had walked
through the day before. Several in the first van got a look at a Hawaiian
(Short-eared) Owl, and we all had perhaps close (perhaps too close)
looks at Nene in the visitor center parking lot. These birds were
picking at vegetation on the nice green lawn; they posed for photos
by Gretchen, Kent, and Peg. Indeed, one seemed fascinated by Peg,
and kept approaching her eye to eye, while Kent recorded it
on film. Ken noticed how small these geese were close hand, likely
the relatives of Cackling Geese of the north. They chased each other
around a bit, took flight, then returned to munch and be photographed.
After buying
books and posters in the park visitor center, we drove up the rest
of the 36 scenic switchbacks to get into the barren rock realm on
the mountaintop. We saw many of volcanic characteristics, including
cinders, bombs, and lots of ‘a‘a (“ah ah”)
lava. Inside the crater a dozen or so smaller, resurgent cinder cones
lent color to the barren landscape. Clouds crept up the outer slopes
and swirled down towards the center; in the distance loomed the younger
domes of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea on the neighboring Big Island. Many
of us climbed the hill to a panoramic view of this “house of
the sun,” where the demigod Maui supposedly tied down the sun
to convince him to give us more hours of daylight. The plant life
was fascinating: we saw patches of Silversword down in the crater,
and Naenae with its odd leaves and showy flowers along the
path. Chukar were the birds of the day here. They romped in the parking
lot as we got ourselves parked, then zipped about the volcanic rocks
and plants, seeming to pose for photos. Doug and Kent shot LOTS of
film on these guys -- hoping for that “book cover” shot,
as Doug says. Alan found his niche as a Chukar cowboy, gently moving
them off the sidewalk back to more natural display areas.
From the
crater vista point we continued to the top, to a sheltered lookout
near the observatory. Silverswords were displayed in several life
stages, including one just finished flowering. This plant grows only
on Haleakala, and it was a thrill to see it. At our final scenic overlook
stop, Kent and Alex spotted Ti leaf offerings, small tied bundles
decorated by small Kukui nut leis, left by someone to honor the god
Maui. Here at 10,000 feet we had to bundle up against a cold wind;
it was only 55 when four of our group stayed on to watch the
sunset. They reported a glorious experience: they had the parking
lot to themselves as they watched the sun light up the clouds. It
was a soothing balm for the election results, which were a disappointment
to many in our group.
Thurs.,
Nov. 4 Kaloko Honokohau National Historic Park, Hawaii
On to the Big
Island today. We packed up our gear before sitting down to one last
round of delicious pancakes, omelets and more. Then it was on to the
airport, where we caught a direct commuter flight on Island Air. Once
Peg and Doug picked up the vans, we were on our way to nearby Kaloko
Honokohau National Historic Park, where rock ruins marked an early
Polynesian settlement. We walked a trail through pahoehoe lava to
the beach, where we had great scope views at a Red Knot among Sanderling
and Ruddy Turnstone. The pond held several ducks – Ring-necked,
Greater and Lesser Scaup, and Green-winged Teal as well as a Cackling
Goose – all down from the Arctic.
But the
highlight for most was the proximity of some huge Green Sea Turtles,
seen first in the water feeding on algae, then resting on the beach.
Betty, walking along intent on finding shells, almost ran into four
of them! Soon we were clustered around like a fan club, Judy and Beryl
-- who do volunteer work with this species in South Carolina –
provided us great information. Even they were impressed with the turtles’
lack of fear, likely the long result of having no predators to worry
about (save man). We could look right into their well-sculpted faces
and see the salty tears they exude to protect their eyes when on land
– incredible!
We celebrated
with a delightful lunch at the harbor marina; sitting out on the porch
with a view of the water. Then we checked into our hotel, where many
of our group enjoyed a swim in the pool or in lagoon. A few of the
diligent went for another walk and some late-afternoon birding; they
found it quiet but still enjoyable. Kailua-Kona has many shops and
restaurants, so we scattered to sample the fare. Kent and Marcia had
delicious calamari and a macadamia nut pie at the Kona Inn; Judy and
Beryl led the way to the Thai restaurant, where the green papaya salad
was divine.
Fri.,
Nov. 5 Saddle Road Kipukas and Native Forest, Hawaii
Bright and early,
we met our Hawaii Forest and Trail guides: Rob Pacheco, the owner,
and Garry, guide and long-time Hawaii resident. Immediately, we were
immersed in their wonderful knowledge of everything from geology to
Hawaiian culture. We passed lava flows dating from the 1800’s
and another from 1935, marveling at the pioneering plants: in the
lowlands, exotics such as Fountain Grass and Castor Bean; and in the
highlands, a stunning mix of native Ohia and more. Our first destination
was the Pu’u ‘O’o Trail across the saddle between
Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, where we had a good chance to see the ‘Akiapola‘au
in a kipuka that held mature Koa trees. Now with two additional guides,
we walked slowly, sharing many stories and their knowledge of insects,
plants, and birds. Footing on the trail was challenging because a
native lichen covered the uneven lava foundation (imagine fuzzy lava!).
The tree ferns delighted Jan, and Gretchen followed Rob to inspect
a beehive in the open trunk of a Koa. Alan and Kathy were happy to
see so many native birds -- there were LOTS of Amakihi, I’iwi,
Hawai‘i ‘Elepaio, and Oma‘o. In time we got good
looks at them all.
But the
Aki – that was an adventure. We heard this little prankster
from our lunch spot, where we ate under arching branches of native
Koa, with blooming Ohia threading up to the sunlit canopy. Garry led
us to a spot where he had heard it while we ate; eventually, with
some artful maneuvers over rock and glen, many of our group got an
excellent look. Ken and Sandra got a chance to see it using its odd
bill to probe deep into the bark – what luck! We felt privileged
to even get a glimpse of what is the rarest bird in this forest! There
were many other things to see as well, from the native Wild Geranium
to how much nectar is held in an Ohia blossom.
The day
passed quickly, and soon we had to return to the vans to move on to
our dry forest site in hopes of finding the Palila. This large, grosbeak-like
honeycreeper proved to be much more cooperative – posing for
us in its favorite Mamane and Naio trees. We watched a family group
for quite a while as the youngster begged for food. Doug wanted to
check for possible finches flocking up at the golf course, so we stopped
there on the way home, but it was too late in the day. Our arrival
there at dusk proved fruitful, however, because we saw an endangered
species that is one of Hawaii’s only two native mammals –
the Hawaiian Hoary Bat. It flew just above the canopy of trees at
the entrance – a great way to end an extensive field day!
Many enjoyed
a relaxing evening at the hotel, while several of us wandered down
to catch a local parade to honor the ethnic origins of the island’s
coffee growers. It was definitely a small town event, but charming.
There was a lantern float, several people in costumes from their native
lands, lots of kids wearing glow-in-the-dark rings, bicyclists,
and cheerleaders -- with all the zest of small town life. Restaurants
were crowded, so we split up into several groups to enjoy dinner by
the sea.
Sat., Nov. 6 Native forests of Hakalau Forest National Wildlife
Refuge
We met early for
an arduous but rewarding van ride up to the remote Hakalau Forest
National Wildlife Refuge, the first in the country designated to protect
and enhance habitat for forest birds. Retracing our route up Saddle
Road, we wound between ‘a‘a and pahoehoe lava flows of
varying ages and textures, with views of both Mauna Loa and Mauna
Kea on either side. We enjoyed our breakfast at the Mauna Kea State
Park before venturing out 10 miles of rough dirt road. This 30,000-acre
refuge is not open to the public; we entered on a limited permit under
the auspices of Hawaii Forest and Trail and had the entire place to
ourselves.
After cleaning
our shoes to ensure we did not inadvertently introduce unwanted seeds,
we packed up our picnic lunches and entered this incredible native
forest. Huge Ohia and Koa trees arched over the road, the Ohia dense
with bloom. Dozens of I’iwi and Apapane searched for nectar
in the blossoms; soon Doug honed in on a group of Akepa working through
the leaves in search of insects. We had super looks at males and females,
as well as O’mao. Continuing down the trail, we learned about
native ferns and various members of the lobelia family.
At the
kiosk for researchers we encountered a young intern who offered to
show us a bird recently captured for banding. Our cameras clicked
away as we studied the Amakihi in her hand – its remarkable
probing bill and diminutive size now more memorable! Rob, Gary and
Doug heard calls of Hawaii Creeper; after we searched through
many flocks, finally part of our group got fantastic looks at this
nuthatch-like member of the honeycreeper family. Just being in this
mature native forest, with abundant bird song and the mist rolling
in, was marvelous. Cathy just kept saying, “I’m happy
I’m in this forest!”
Two wild
Nene greeted us in the pasture upon our return. Since a single pair
was introduced at the refuge, this species has been doing well –
their calls in the mist announcing their success. We stopped at the
Hawaii Forest and Trail shop at the day’s end to buy books and
T-shirts, including a fanny pack for Jan, then spread out around town
to enjoy the local restaurants.
Sunday,
November 7 Coffee Farm / Painted Church / South Coast
We began our day
in the mill of Bay View Farms Coffee, a family-owned business that
sits on the slopes of the Big Island overlooking the sky-blue bay
of the Pacific. Leilani gave a tour, describing in detail the nature
and care of Kona coffee – quite a complex process! Several of
our group selected coffee and macadamia nuts to take home from this
special place. The view from the hillside location was just incredible
– blue sky and blue ocean water as far as you could see, all
framed by plantings of ginger, bougainvillea, orchids, and more.
Our next
stop was St. Benedict’s Painted Church, a delightful oasis with
beautiful gardens. This small church displayed lavish decoration,
painted by a Belgian priest in the early 1900s. The interior walls
were bright with island colors; painted palm trees mixed with scenes
of the life of Christ in a memorable folk-art style. Sandra spotted
a Crown of Thorns plant in bloom, marking the start of a walk of the
Stations of the Cross. Alex made friends with a gaudy Calico cat,
while others searched flocks of Saffron Finch and Yellow-fronted Canary
for possible Lavender Waxbills.
We drove
back down to the seacoast for a great picnic lunch at the beach, where
we explored tide pools before enjoying fresh salads and chocolate-covered
macadamia nuts. The beach is a part of the Pu’uhonua o Honaunau
National Historical Park, where a striking collection of ancient carved
pillars and grass huts has been reconstructed amid the ancient stone
walls of the place of refuge, or “pu’uhonua.” In
early Hawaiian culture, those who broke a taboo or committed small
crimes had a chance to find forgiveness if they could make it to this
place. Sitting on a small point of land, carved figures pointing
to the sea, the city has become a refuge for sea turtles as well.
Several entered the lagoon, waiting for tourists to pass before hauling
out on the beach.
It was
Al’s 65th birthday; we celebrated with a cake at
the southernmost point in the United States, a gorgeous spot where
waves crashed upon dark volcanic rock as we posed for photos. Next
stop – Antarctica, 7,500 miles away….
Rain fell
intermittently as we drove on to Volcano Village and our accommodations
at Kilauea Lodge and the nearby Hale Ohia Cottages. We arrived after
dark, so getting settled was a bit trying; we were consoled by a lovely
dinner at the inn, where a cheery fireplace warmed the dining room
here at 4,000 feet.
Mon.,
Nov. 8 Keauhou Bird Conservation Facility / Hawaii Volcanoes National
Park
We woke to a cacophony
of bird song, mostly Apapane and Red-billed Leothrix. Peg and Jean
enjoyed coffee out on the porch; several others walked a bit, and
we had a nice breakfast at the inn. Alan Leiberman, lead biologist
for the endangered species captive breeding facility, gave us a tour
this morning. Both he and the work of the facility are tremendously
dynamic, and our group asked lots of questions. We were treated to
a video of the newly captured Po‘ouli on Maui. Sadly, this bird
died shortly after our tour, an event that made the national news
media, because it may have been the last of its species.
We examined
all aspects of the rearing process; impressed by hospital-like rooms
where eggs are incubated and chicks are fed exact proportions while
nestled in cups on a scale. We saw where biologists record the behavior
and nesting efforts of the highly endangered Hawaiian Crow (the only
known individuals are here in captivity, but there are hopes the species
soon can be reintroduced into the wild). The lab where the crows’
food is prepared was cleaner than any commercial kitchen! In the aviary
area we could watch Maui Parrotbill, Palila, and other honeycreeper
species feed and interact. The parrotbill males were singing away
– a rare and beautiful song. Several of these were captive-bred
birds ready to be released to augment declining wild populations.
Alan Lieberman noted that several species of the many now extinct
Hawaiian birds might still be here, “if only we’d had
this facility 25 years ago.”
We walked
the trail at nearby Kipuka Pua’ulu, under 100-foot tall Ohia
trees. Kent remarked how much taller they were than any we had seen.
Ken spotted a Melodious Laughing Thrush, previously only heard on
our journey. We had good looks at Omao and Apapane and enjoyed Doug
telling us of many of the native Hawaiian plants. The whole area was
magical, with its lush understory of tree ferns and encompassing circle
of lava rock.
After lunch
at the golf course -- where the Portugese Bean Soup was particularly
delicious -- we headed into Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Just after
the entrance booth we left the lush forest behind to enter a strange
world of new lava. Steam vents opened beneath scanty ferns and stunted
trees. Several times in the last 25 years the park service has had
to replace sections of this road after fresh lava buried them. It
was rather incredible to drive right over this recent lava and to
compare the textures of the flows. Offerings to the goddess Pele were
fresh at the crater rim of Halema‘uma‘u, where a violent
explosion in 1924 was recorded in photographs. Ken and Gretchen walked
to the farther rim, while Al got the scope set up on some brilliant
yellow sulphurous steam vents. We had fine views of a White-tailed
Tropicbird – so strange to see this delicate white seabird in
this desolate land of black lava.
We continued
down to the beach, stopping to take photos and to scope the obvious
clouds that billowed up where lava was reaching the sea – now
three miles away from the parking area and farther than we felt we
could go with flashlights. We did get great views of Black Noddy near
the sea arch, but contented ourselves with scope views of lava and
its glow of reflected light from a roadside viewing area.
As rain
threatened and we’d opted out of the six-mile walk, we decided
to return to one of our houses for our “lava” picnic.
As Beryl pointed out, it turned out to be a great move. Cathy, Al,
and Doug offered their cottage: it had many comfortable places to
sit inside and out, and we had LOTS of food spread out on nice trays.
Led by Gretchen, Beryl and Judy, the dish brigade finished quickly;
we were soon on our way to a good night’s sleep after a long
but wonderful day.
Tues.,
Nov. 9 Thurston Lava Tube / Hilo / South Coast Kauai
We had a few more
Big Island experiences to scratch off our list before leaving for
the Hilo airport and the flight to Kauai. After a delicious breakfast
at Kilauea Lodge, we returned to Hawaii Volcano National Park to take
a walk in the Thurston Lava Tube. Lush ferns arc over the entry to
this chasm, which is large enough to hold more than our whole group.
Nothing like seeing volcanic rock up close and personal! Leaving the
tube, we were treated to views of Apapane and orchids.
After one
more stop for a view of Mauna Loa at Kilauea Iki Crater we descended
in elevation and toured a bit of the scenic coast road near Hilo.
We had some bad luck this afternoon – perhaps because, as the
legend says, one of our group took some of the goddess Pele’s
precious rocks? The car rental process took well over an hour and
a half, meaning we once again arrived at our accommodations, a group
of cottages on Waimea Plantation, in the dark. Sorting out luggage
and finding our homes proved quite a challenge! The next day we saw
how delightful our surroundings were, but in the dark we couldn’t
tell. An easy inner at the plantation’s brewpub seemed just
right.
Wed.,
Nov. 10 Waimea Plantation / Kilauea Point NWR / North Coast / Na Pali
beach
From the large
“Manager’s Cottage,” Betty made a quick dash
out on the lawn at dawn, wanting to get a sense of place now that
we could see! She was beckoned by palm trees, a nice swimming pool,
and beach. However, Doug was enthusiastic to show us much of Kauai
this day, and soon we were off again. Locals in Waimea, still very
much a small town, seemed amazed when 17 strolled into the local eatery
for breakfast.
After breakfast
we drove north to Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, where we
had arranged a private, guided tour of Crater Hill to overlook north
Kauai’s nesting colonies of seabirds. We got hung up in traffic
in Lihue; but Beryl had the refuge’s phone number handy so we
could tell Brenda, our biologist/guide, that we were on our way.
Jean M.
was glad to have her stick for this climb as she tackled the steep
incline without hesitation. We were all proud of her: although the
senior member of our group, she was often among the first up every
trail. While stopping to huff and puff, we all enjoyed superlative
views of the dramatic coast and its signature, picturesque lighthouse.
Many of our group had never seen Great Frigatebird, Red-footed Boobies,
or White-tailed Tropicbirds. Here they were just gliding overhead
– it was marvelous! Jan got a great look at the red feet of
several adult boobies in the scope. Judy spotted a perched Great Frigatebird
and several juvenile boobies. Western Meadowlarks perched for scope
views and serenaded us along the way; Gretchen and Brad spotted our
first Nutmeg Manakin flock in a small Pandanus tree.
We made
our way up to a viewpoint of a hidden cove; just off the viewing platform
Brenda showed us a Wedge-tailed Shearwater chick peeking out of its
burrow! On to the final ocean view observation platform, where fortunately
the wind provided some air conditioning on this unusually hot and
sunny day. Kent put the scope on a couple of Brown Boobies;
Doug spotted a Red-tailed Tropicbird and described in detail its definitive
form. Cathy and Al had spotted a young bird, seemingly disoriented,
in the tall grass just off the trail. On our return we spotted it
again – a lost Nene chick, left by its parents. Brenda quickly
scooped it up, explaining that she knew of another mating pair with
a brood of the same age that would likely take the orphan in. It drank
water from Sandra’s cup – very sweet!
After our
tour we had time at the visitors center to stock up on books and t-shirts
and read the informative displays. We walked out to the point for
view of the lighthouse, where Doug had scopes on several more Brown
Boobies. Turning the scopes inland, he finally located an early-returning
Laysan Albatross among the ironwood trees on the hillside. Several
of us lingered to watch a number of adult Wedge-tailed Shearwaters
at their burrows feeding chicks – as the nesting area was just
off the trail our views were pretty incredible! Below us in the wet
tidal zone, a rare Monk Seal was basking on rocks, and later was joined
by another.
We enjoyed
fresh salads and local fish at a restaurant lunch, then continued
our birding from the overlook of the taro ponds and agricultural fields
of Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. One of our saddest finds of the
trip was a Newell’s Shearwater, a chick likely just fledged,
that seemed bogged down in the canal, unable to take flight. Several
wanted Peg to jump in, but she declined, fearing that she would only
further traumatize the bird. The refuge staff was sympathetic, noting
that sometimes if there was a good wind a struggling fledgling could
make it; otherwise, they said, such was natural selection at work.
Continuing on, we got good looks at real Hawaiian Ducks (not hybrids)
and a FABULOUS view of Melodious Laughing-thrush -- again thanks to
Ken, who had a real eye for this species.
After the
refuge visit, we drove the scenic north road to its end at the striking
beach at the edge of the Na Pali cliffs. Beryl and Judy took a swim,
while Alex, Jean, and Betty examined reef creatures – huge sea
cucumbers, small group of shark, and a variety of colorful fish. Doug
led the birders on to find some shorebirds, including a fly-by Whimbrel.
In the evening we enjoyed one of the best dinners of our trip, at
the innovative restaurant, A Pacific Café.
Thurs., Nov. 11 Waimea Canyon and Koke‘e
Today we had a
relatively short drive up the incredible Waimea Canyon, known as the
Grand Canyon of the Pacific. Our first stop for photos provided just
a hint of the views we would see further up the road. The emerald
green of the lush vegetation contrasts dramatically with the red rock
walls of this deeply eroded volcanic canyon. Leaving the canyon, we
followed the road to another spectacular scenic overlook on the Na
Pali cliffs. Yesterday we had been on the coast at the base of these
cliffs looking up; now we were high in the mountains, on a blessedly
clear day for viewing, looking about 3,000 feet down to the sea. Betty
spotted a White-tailed Tropicbird far below us, while the photographers
framed up shots with two catamarans dotting the water. We found Kauai
Amakihi here, the first of several Kauai honeycreepers we hoped to
add to our list.
We retraced
our steps to the Koke‘e State Park Lodge, then drove some of
the back dirt roads to our trailhead for the Alakai Swamp.
Doug and Kent scouted the way, then shuttled the group the last mile
or so in our four-wheel drive vehicle. Soon we were searching for
several of the endemic birds of Kauai. The forests were lovely here,
and Kent found a good spot to capture the quality of the forest on
film. Our ridgeline trail gave us bird’s eye views of dense
vegetation below, then narrowed to a more stunted forest stripped
by earlier hurricanes. We walked a boardwalk trail (thankfully wider
than that of the TNC preserve on Maui) through very stunted Ohia trees,
and Doug pointed out diminutive sundew plants. He described several
other key plants of the area and found us a lunch spot in good honeycreeper
habitat.
The Kaua‘i
Elepaio visited us at several points in the trail; the young bird
with its chestnut head was particularly endearing. We had come to
know the habits of this perky little creature, and for many it was
a favorite among the native birds. The warbler-like ‘Anianiau
and the ‘Akeke‘e were our other finds. Six of the
group stayed back to try for ‘Akikiki, but this shy bird did
not put in an appearance this day.
After such
a busy journey here, the thought of some time by the pool was enticing.
We were happy to return in the afternoon to enjoy our cottages, the
lovely pool, and a fine breeze off the ocean. Jean and Betty entertained
several on the lanai of the Manager’s Cottage; Alex tried the
hammock under the trees; Cathy and Al enjoyed a swim and Sandra walked
the beach. We then gathered for our final dinner at Il Pomodoro ,
a nice local Italian restaurant. We drew up our final bird list (101
species before the ocean voyage!) and enjoyed each other’s company
for a final evening.
Fri.,
Nov. 12 Pelagic Birding Boat Trip / Hike / Departures
Peg, Jean, Brad,
and Sandra enjoyed a day of hiking today, on a trail that paralleled
the ridge west of the overviews we’d enjoyed the day before.
Peg and Sandra got a view of and heard some riotous calls from the
Greater-necklaced Laughing Thrush.
The rest
of our group had booked an optional boat trip for pelagic birding.
Views of a Christmas Shearwater and Laysan Albatrosses proved the
highlights of this cruise. Judy and Beryl were especially thrilled
to see humpback whale, one of the first to arrive for the winter.
The swells were pretty high, and some had to wrestle with seasickness.
Those with strong stomachs tried a bit of snorkeling; Ken and Gretchen
loved the colorful fish – a new treat for them to see (beware,
this may compete with birding!)
Our journey
had come to an end today. Some flew out on evening flights, and others
stayed on to enjoy one last dinner and reminisce about all we had
seen and done!
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