The Nature of Honduras
March 2003 - Trip Report

Wednesday, March 5          Arrival in Honduras, San Pedro Sula
Today was an arrival day, and most of the group came mid-day.  Ralph and Regina came in early, having just completed two months of travel in the far reaches of Patagonia.  There was much to catch up on and they enjoyed a great buffet lunch with Peg at the hotel, while Gail and Robert met others arriving at the airport.  Ralph and Peg had quite a tour of the local banks trying to catch travelers checks and retrieving Peg's ATM card that disappeared into the bowels of one of the machines.  We went as a group to the Museum of Archaeology and history, a great introduction to pre-Columbian Honduras.  We saw wonderful maps of the Mayan world, connecting the Olmec and Mayan cultures over time and depicting the strong links to Mexico.  They had depictions of the ball courts and features of Copan we would see in the next few days.  We also started our shopping with a visit to the vibrant and colorful Mercado Guamilito and were introduced to the local beer, Salva Vida, as people wrapped up hammocks, wooden bowls, small ornaments and more.  Our welcome dinner was at a typical Garifuna restaurant, where we learned about the breads, and fresh fish dishes.  Several got brave and tried the cabrito, which came on steaming individual grills. Robert gave us a sneak preview with his excellent slideshow highlighting waterfalls, mountain vistas, toucans, orchids and even a vine snake eating a small bird!  Off to a nice sound sleep with many adventures ahead.  

 

Thursday, March 6             San Pedro Sula Museums and Market, Travel to Copan, El Puente Archaeological Site

We woke to bird song loud and enticing out the balconies of the hotel - Peg noted 10 species before breakfast right here in the middle of the city.  Janet and Gail got the largest fruit plate imaginable for breakfast with huge chunks of papaya and fresh pineapple, a specialty of the country.  We also enjoyed the local coffee.  Luggage loaded we headed out in our small bus.  Howls of laughter rang down the aisles as Robert passed his bird book around to show a few species, and out pops a photo of himself shirtless - a great way to break the ice!  Our driver Leno was quite a bird spotter and showed us White-tailed Magpie Jays flying over the road, and a pair of nesting Crested Caracara.  We traveled a good road 186 kilometers to Copan. Robert gave an excellent geographic overview of the country, depicting mountains that run in every direction.  We past sugar cane fields and pine forests, brilliant yellow trumpet trees in bloom, big ceiba and guanacaste trees, a young boy carrying a long string of fish, tethered horses, people waiting for the bus - just overall life with lots of activity.  We settled back to take it all in, and enjoyed Montezuma Oropendola, Great Kiskadee, Black Vultures and other birds of the road.  Honduras seemed a lush country for its agriculture - oranges, sorghum, old 4-wheel drive John Deer tractors digging up deep rich volcanic soil, 2 shiny oxen pulling timber.  Our afternoon was spent at a magical small ruin - el Puente.  This site was beautifully cared for and fairly new - just opened to the public in 1994.  The local guard gave us an interpretation, and we were free to wander the site, and enjoy a picnic lunch by the river.  Ralph and Regina devoured the Chips Ahoy - they had been gone from the states awhile!  We saw many birds this day - memorable were the noisy Brown Jays, a brilliant Magnolia Warbler next to a Yellow-throated Euphonia, a busy Olivacious Woodcreeper and a pair of very tame Pygmy Owls, chased by a tough little Cinnamon Hummingbird.  Tat scampered up a steep set of stone stairs (great now with new knees!) and we all marveled at the views from treetop level of the ruins. We arrived late afternoon at our comfortable accommodations at El Jaral, and within minutes Tat, Don, Peg and Gail were in the pool. Beautiful flowers and a chance to visit with several Honduran families also staying there to see Copan was fun. We did our first bird list, met Robert's delightful wife Irma, and enjoyed cool sleeping weather after a very hot day.

 

Friday, March 7                   Full day at Copan

Today we enjoyed this premier Mayan ruin site, certainly one of the most beautiful and by far one of the more complex in artistry and design.  The whole effect of Copan is so captivating because it has not been fully excavated.  You often climb up a natural trail under tall spreading figs and bright colored flowers, only to get to the top and have half a temple exposed before you.   Regina described it as "interwoven with nature" and Tat and Phyllis agreed this was worth the whole trip.  Tall ceiba and other tropical trees tower over the site, providing shade and places to rest as we explored as well as fine perches for flocks of noisy Green and Olive-throated Parakeets with their White-fronted Parrot cousins.  The trees extend roots into the temples; views from the top are of plazas, ball fields, other temples and massive carved stone pillars. A real treat was the commonness of Altimira Orioles, often singing loudly from just a few feet away.  Their clarion calls echo amid the ruins, careful observation reveals a few Streak-backed Orioles among them.  We climbed up and down the trails made to let you explore the ancient stone city.  Don and Jan worked hard at capturing the place on film, and several others wandered on their own in sheer amazement.  Our guide Fredy was very patient with our birdwatching, but kept at it to help us understand current thinking about this part of the Mayan world.  His interpretation was very thoughtful and we were lucky to have him.  We went down into two tunnels that let you see the lower (older) levels of the site.  Phyllis marveled at huge mask figures of Scarlet Macaws.  We toured the local museum with its tunnel-like entrance and reconstruction of Rosalia.  Gail and Regina loved the Bat figure, huge and imposing, carved in stone.  One more stop before heading in for a break - Robert and Irma's most impressive butterfly and insect farm.  Lovingly put together, it was a great place to see insects and their feed plants, orchids in bloom and more.  We enjoyed the interactive matching i.d. cards as we found nearly 25 different butterfly species. People enjoyed shopping for handicrafts, Ralph venturing out to meet the street vendors.  After some R and R and pool time, we went back to a great local restaurant.  It was Friday evening and full of people from around the world, here to see Copan. Ralph captured our waitress on film; with perfect posture she carried everything from trays of beer to full dinners up and down a narrow stairs.  Janet had the largest plate of nachos ever created and loved every bite. .

 

Saturday, March 8              Second day at Copan and birding in the Copan area

Today we headed for the highlands, following a quiet mountain road up to a local mountainside coffee farm and processing plant of Robert's friend Lloyd Davidson.  We watched an agouti feeding on fallen fruits, fat and shiny in the morning sun.  We took a 4WD truck up the mountain, and laughed as we got in and out with the frequent bird sightings. Soon we found ourselves amidst tall stately pines. Higher we would reach the broad-leafed forest with sweet gums just leafing out - a new habitat for many in the group. We saw Grace's Warbler, Bushy-crested Jay, and gorgeous views of an Azure-crowned Hummingbird all while two kestrels vied for a nest cavity with a pair of Masked Tityra.  Black-headed Siskin were feeding in the maize and eagle eye Ralph spotted a perfectly camouflaged Basilisk lizard with its spiral crest looking all the world like a leaf.  A large flock of white-crowned Parrot bombed about overhead with the more graceful Swallow-tailed Kite. We arrived at the coffee farm about 10:30 and walked two lovely trails on this shade-grown plantation and an adjacent private nature reserve.  We had good looks at a Collared Trogon and several got to see the Emerald Toucanet.  Don and Ralph photographed a beautiful malachite butterfly. The tour of the coffee farm was really interesting, made more so by Don's good questions. Phyllis said "I'm going to drink my coffee more slowly after that.".  This was a modern water saving system imported from Guatamala - we had some fascinating discussions on coffee and the world market. Down the mountain we went with orders to stop for no more birds - it was time for a late lunch and siesta!  The evening was very special - a delicious home-cooked meal at a 100 yr. old hacienda lovingly restored by one of the family for just such special events.  Regina, Janet and Peg arrived to dinner on horseback - a great ride along the river and up the mountain - Regina aboard just a dream of a little mare "Estrella".  She absolutely glided along, so graceful and one with the countryside and the Copan River - a nice image to remember. We lingered a long time at Hacienda San Luis, over our chicken with special adovada sauce (sesame and pumpkin seeds ground fine and cooked with local chiles) and other delights, candlelight, some good wine, a star-filled sky and good friends and conversation.  Jan and Don loved the special papaya desert. Our hostess Flavia was most personable, and provided a truly magical and memorable evening.
 

Sunday, March 9                 Lago de Yojoa / Las Sepultaras

We woke to an early breakfast amid clouds and mist, calls of Plain Wren and Clay-colored Robin with the hoot-hoot of Blue-crowned Motmots as the base. Robert had arranged for an early arrival for us and the reward was the soft light of dawn at this smaller sister site of Copan.  We had the place to ourselves, and Ralph immediately found a Hooded Warbler, joined soon by the jaunty little Ovenbird.  We had great but fast-moving views of a Northern Bentbill, and for this Janet says, "I'm checking that one for effort". On his heals was a Yellow-Olive Flatbill and several other flycatchers we could work through with identification skills. We walked down to the river and marveled at yet more writings, inscriptions, and beauty of stone work in this long-ago residential area. Three Roadside and one Gray Hawk put on a great aerial display against a brilliant blue sky.  At the museum in town we saw many of the artifacts of Copan; jade, pottery, incense burners, and symbols of the entire royal lineage of 16 rulers on a panel timeline.  After lunch it was mainly a travel day as we drove to Lago Yojoa.  Janet spiced up the drive as she found her stash of 30 $1.00 bills - "more beers ahead!"  Robert discussed several current conservation issues in Honduras as we drove.  Roadsides were delightfully clear of trash and we enjoyed views of several 8000-ft. mountain peaks en route. Ralph was on a quest for ice cream, and at a quick stop at a local market Janet got a beautiful hat, Peg two hammocks, Ralph a pretty colored basket and Phyllis a cute straw baseball cap.  Jan enjoyed the GREEN of the lake's landscape - tucked in between two beautiful national parks. There were white caps on the lake, which Phyllis enjoyed from her huge private suite - a lucky draw on the room assignments at Finca Las Glorias. 

 

Monday, March 10              Lago de Yojoa, Cerro Azul Meamber National Park

We left early again this morning to walk the trails and bird at an incredible, mid-elevation, lushly forested National Park. Driving up a winding dirt road, we passed through several small towns and enjoyed views of rural life. At the entrance we found a small visitor's center and a dormitory and dining room facility where students were gathered to study ecology.  The bird activity was so amazing that we didn't leave the parking lot for over an hour and a half!  A fruiting tree was the magnet, drawing in Collared Aracari, both Brown and Green Jays (a group favorite), Masked Tityra and a Rufous Mourner.  An adjacent tree held migrants, Tennessee, Chestnut-sided, Black-throated Green, Black and white Warblers joined by Tropical Parula and more.  We started our walk, and before leaving the building area found a student working on her project - a study of a nesting Rufous hummingbird on her perfectly constructed nest - what a treat.  We had good looks at Brushy-crested Jays and Keel-billed Toucan.  We followed an excellent trail down into a ravine to a beautiful falls where everyone took turns photographing each other, and Jan spotted a gorgeous Gongora sp. Orchid.  With bright sun the butterflies were active in the clearings.  We walked into more mature forest, intercepting one mixed flock that included Lesser Greenlet, Plain Antvireo and a host of migrant warblers. Janet got some nice posters for her room of travel collages and photos.  Down the mountain we wound, ending up at a very fun restaurant where we took over the back porch for an easy procession of herons, egrets, waders, shorebirds and more.  It was great to have them so close - especially a Yellow-headed Vulture and numerous Snail Kites. Cold beer or a soda in hand, lunch on the way, and over 30 species of birds - not a bad way to spend the afternoon.  Indeed we did linger.  We had great scope views of Fulvous and Black-bellied Whistling Ducks, Fork-tailed Flycatcher and Limpkin.  Ralph was in his element - "now this is my style of birding".  We feasted on fresh fish and hamburguesas under the shade of the veranda and had to pull ourselves away in time to get home for our pontoon ride on the lake.  At sunset we cruised through narrow channels threading our way between lots of local fishing boats, the sun broke through curtains of clouds and the views were just magnificent - a nice end to a great day!

 

Tuesday, March 11             Los Naranjo's Archaeological Park / North Caribbean Coast / Tela

Phyllis, Don and Jan, Gail and Peg met early by the bridge hoping to find one of the elusive crakes we heard calling.  It was a beautiful morning with pink light in the clouds above the mountains and early light shining on yellow blossoms of the San Juan trees. Jan and Peg spotted a cinnamon phase Short-tailed Weasel and we all watched two Limpkins spar like dancing cranes.  Red-lored Amazon and White-fronted Parrots flew from their night roosts out to feed. A real highlight was the Bare-throated Tiger Heron swallowing a fish.  Breakfast was delightful out by the pool - tropical fruits, fresh bread and fresh watermelon juice. We again had special permission to enter the park at Los Naranjos early.  Young army soldiers and a sweet German Shepherd with a litter of pups greeted us.  Regina posed for photos with the guards.  What a place!  From the open grounds of the museum area we got scope views of Red-lored Amazons, Olive-throated Parakeets, Rose-breasted Grosbeak, Indigo Bunting, Blue-black Grassquit, Roadside Hawk and more.  We started down the trail, sturdily made with concrete and gravel, winding through beautiful humid subtropical forest with trees arching over the trail.  As we started out onto the boardwalk the trees became draped with bromeliads, long curtains of Spanish moss and other epiphytes. So many birds were flitting about that we made slow progress.  We enjoyed great looks at a Long-billed Starthroat, but the star of the day was a pair of Barred Antshrike posing well for us in a vine tangle. We also had great views of a Rufous and White Wren and Ralph worked hard at getting a photo of the female going in and out of their huge fluffy nest. We had fleeting views of a Cinnamon Woodpecker and took a quick detour of the trail to avoid a very active swarm of bees. Dozens of oropendola made their way about the ruins of a pre-Mayan culture, hidden in mounds still to be excavated.  The museum had sculptures and pottery of Lenca and Olmec cultures with excellent maps and displays.  After lunch we headed on to the Caribbean, passing by a local waterfall en route.  This drive took us back through the larger cities, where we saw several of the huge clothing manufacturing plants. For a break we stopped at the grocery picking up breakfast foods, snacks, fresh cheese and wine. It was a giant supermercado and people were happy with their treasures of coffee, spices and more. We arrived at the beautiful villas at Tela in the late afternoon and several of us immediately went out to the beach for a swim - perfect temperature and perfect waves - a real treat!  Tat enjoyed some great relaxation and people watching at the pool, others took naps, and we all enjoyed sitting on our porches chattering away and watching the sunset.

 

Wednesday, March 12            Caribbean Coast, Punta Sal, Jeanette Kawas National Park

Most of our group today went out to Punta Sal with Garifuna Tours.  In a good, covered boat they were out to the Point in about 45 minutes.  On a walk they encountered Howler Monkeys quite close, with great views of adults and young.  Many Montezuma Oropendola entertained us as well, working on their nests in the palms. Swimming in the picturesque bay was divine, though the snorkeling was disappointing, Trunkfish, Blue Tangs and Green Angelfish the highlights. Everyone raved about the lunch - fresh fish prepared Garifuna style, which Janet described as  "the best meal of the trip".  It was fun to eat with the family and their entourage of turkeys, geese, dogs and a pet White-crowned Parrot.  Brown Pelicans and Magnificent Frigatebirds were abundant, Brown Boobies occurred off the point.  A Peregrine Falcon made a fast pass through the area, and a good sighting of Mangrove Vireo was new for many. The trip back over open ocean was fast and rough - all were glad to land and find their way back to our comfortable villas to relax.  Four of our group spent the day at Lancetilla Gardens, preferring to keep their feet on dry land.  They were adopted by a local dog, which walked the extensive trail system with them.  The place was more of an arboretum than a garden and the emphasis was on tropical forestry and agriculture. Hooded Warbler and Spot-breasted Wren put on a good show down by the river, and a real thrill was a soaring Black Hawk Eagle.  Highlights were great scope views of Olive-throated Parakeet and Lineated Woodpecker.  After a full day, and time to watch sunset on the beach, the group reunited and enjoyed fresh fish at Las Mariscos.

 

Thursday, March 13           Lancetilla Tropical Gardens, travel to Pico Bonito

 This morning our whole group returned to Lancetilla Gardens with Robert, who knows the property well.  We birded on a side road near the entrance, our first sighting being a Bat Falcon, which put on quite a show. Robert was happy to hear the calls of Great Antshrike, and with patience and skill he got everyone on both the male and female for great looks. A migrant flock came through and we ooh'd and aah'd at the breeding plumage beauty of Golden-winged and Yellow-throated Warblers.  Passerini's Tanager showed off his brilliant red rump.  Continuing on down the road, we found two great woodpeckers, the Smoky-brown and a migrant - the Yellow-bellied Sapsucker. We followed a trail through dense mature forest along a small stream.  Here Tat got her first really good look at a Keel-billed Toucan, much to her delight. We had scope views of White-crowned Manakins and Dusky Antbirds in the dense undergrowth, and Rose-throated Becards amid the branches up high. In the gardens proper, we had yet another great look at Turquoise-browed Motmot (what a bird!).  Most notable were the number and tameness of Black-headed Trogons - we saw over a dozen this day alone. We had lunch back at Las Marisco's, sadly not such a good one, but Ralph saved the day by suggesting ice cream.  In the afternoon we drove the coast road over to Pico Bonito, marveling at the exquisite architecture and setting of the Lodge.  This is true luxury in the rainforest, but not over done - a lovely effort to combine nature and creature comforts in style. From the dining area, library and pool you look up to massive Pico Bonito peak and surrounding mountains. Don and others quickly found the pool for a most refreshing dip.  Others napped in their beautiful individual little cabins.  We gathered to walk up to the first observation tower for late afternoon activity and sunset - it was great to watch Keel-billed Toucans at eye level.  A gorgeous Purple-crowned Fairy visited nearby flowers, and White-collared Swifts just filled the sky above us, spiraling out of site in groups of thousands.  We enjoyed a nice dinner and retired to prepare for our early morning adventure.

 

Friday, March 14            Olanchito / Pico Bonito

We couldn't resist making an effort to see the Honduran Emerald, the key endemic bird of this fine country.  It thrives in dry thorn forest, and on the backside of Pico Bonito the rain-shadow effect has created perfect habitat.  Robert was happy to add this special place to our itinerary, despite a fairly long drive from the Lodge.  Just past the village of Olanchito we crossed into an abrupt change of vegetation - an astonishing mix of cacti and mesquite and other thorn forest vegetation reminiscent of the American Southwest.  There were huge prickly pear cacti, hairy-headed columnar Cenita cacti, a relative of the Organ Pipe Cactus, Buckthorn Acacia and a host of flowering shrubs.  Phyllis spotted several plant adaptations familiar to her from the Mojave Desert.  We stopped at a local ranchito where Robert had been many times; its owner proud to have a breeding population of Honduran Emeralds.  Against the backdrop of Pico Bonito it was an impressive location.  Still we wondered at what they must have thought, living so far from modern communication, to have a Toyota Coaster just show up loaded with eager naturalists.  We stood and waited some time by a blooming Opuntia cacti, and sure enough - in came a male - a real thrill!  We saw all the key field marks, and even got some views in the scope with at least attempts at photos.  We then birded in the area, picking up some other dry forest species and enjoying the unique plant life of the ranch.  We saw Fork-tailed (Salvin's) Emerald, White-lored Gnatcatcher and White-bellied Wren.  A female Hook-billed Kite put on a spectacular show and we caught a glimpse of Tropical Mockingbird.   Janet kept saying "its so beautiful here' and a notable quote from Phyllis was "we should have gotten up even earlier..".  By 11:00 am the heat was intense and the bird activity over so we thanked our host and headed back to La Ceiba and relaxed over an excellent lunch in town at Ricardo's.  En route home we photographed a cowboy herding cattle, huge water jugs bouncing off the sides of his horse.  Gail insisted we visit to the Rainforest Gift shop where several did some major damage. Most of the group opted for sheer R and R, pool and hammock time, but Don, Jan and Roberta were rewarded for their persistence with another walk.  They added three new species to our growing trip list and watched the antics of nesting Collared Aracari.  During a round of drinks on the porch we heard the sound of an owl.  Kent rushed for the scope and Ralph and Regina arrived just in time to see a beautiful male Black and White Owl, pursuing a female, perching and calling to her right next to the porch!  You should have seen the grin on Regina's face.  Another great dinner and then off to sleep to the sounds of Great Tinamou and other forest creatures.

 

Saturday, March 15            Cuero y Salado National Wildlife Refuge, Pico Bonito

This morning the group visited the wetlands of Cuero y Salido, accessed by train and boat.  Everyone loved the rather rickety train, which passed by villages and fields enroute to the water.  Then it was off by boat with local guides very keen on seeing wildlife.  We watched a Green Kingfisher pair for quite some time, and marveled at a Great Blue Heron who held his stationary pose for what seemed like hours.  Howler Monkeys came in quite close, uttering their robust calls and stretching on massive tree limbs. A real hit were the perfectly camouflaged Proboscis Bats, which blended in to the bark with amazing precision. They hung face down, showing off their red eyes and long snout.  Plumbeous Kite was a real thrill for Robert - a new species for the La Ceiba area. Several of the group got great photos and all had close views of a young crocodile and a huge iguana.  There was time for snorkeling, though the fish were disappointing at this time.  Fresh fruit and fresh grapefruit juice was most welcome in the heat. While the rest of the group was off to Cuero y Salado with Robert and Gail, Peg scouted out the trails and birding opportunities at the Lodge and was most impressed!  Though steep, the trails give you access to excellent mixed forest.  Three observation towers are thoughtfully placed along the trails system, and from the ridge trail you have a great view of the canopy.  This was the best spot of the day - with a flock of Black-faced Grosbeak, a Black-throated Shrike Tanager, two species of trogons, a host of migrant warblers, Long-billed Gnatwren, Lesser Greenlet, Broad-billed Motmot and more.  Just a first rate tropical experience!  We gathered back at the lodge for lunch and took time for R and R in the afternoon before going back out on the trail. We walked back to the second tower to watch the large Chestnut-headed Oropendola colony and other bird activity in the later afternoon. Toucans and aracaris were the main attraction, but all in all it was quiet and we were content to head home to dinner.  Robert found a beautiful silk moth.  Just as Tat and Janet reached the lodge the heavens opened, our first rain in Honduras and it was a gusher!  We did our final bird list (261 species) to the spectacular sounds of the storm, and drank in the moisture and smells as we reviewed the highlights of our trip.

 

Sunday, March 16               Departures for Home

We watched some of our garden favorites this morning, including the Rufous-tailed Hummingbird with no tail.  Phyllis spotted a striking Basiliscus Lizard with yellow stripes and a punk-rock hairdo. One more try for the Lovely Cotinga, but it was not to be on this trip.  We packed our gear and headed back for the airport - envious of Ralph and Regina who were off to the Bay Islands for a final week of vacation.  It was a super trip - congratulations to all who participated in this first Naturalist Journeys trip to Honduras.

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