Panama
February 2003 - Trip Report

Thursday, February 6 Arrival
Several of the group had come into Panama early to experience some of the city. Norma joined the locals for a day on Taboga Island, where she enjoyed some great people watching and a chance to relax. Several others went into Panama Viejo, the Old City, and exploring churches and museums and enjoying lunch in an upscale café near the Canal Museum and waterfront. At 6:30, we met Hernan, our Panamian guide, for welcome drinks and dinner at the hotel, and were soon off to bed to rest from our travels.

Friday, February 7 Birding Panama's East Side / Ft. San Lorenzo / Panama Railroad ride
We crossed to the country's other side today, so we could return on the Panama Railroad on its scheduled 5:00p.m. run. We left early so the birding would be good and were rewarded for our efforts. We passed Mirflores, San Pedro Miguel locks en route, and Hernan gave a lively commentary on the 52 million gallons per ship need for water and other marvels of day-to-day life on the canal. Tropical Mockingbird was one of our first birds, and Magnificent Frigatebird, soaring above, our second. In grassy areas near one of the spillways we saw quite a few Red-breasted Blackbird, and a bird well known from home - the Eastern Meadowlark. Just out of the bus, for our first viewing, Peg caught a glimpse of a dark phase jaguarondi crossing the road! We got great scope views of Chestnut-mandibled Toucans, and had fun looking at the profusion of showy flowers in bloom - white Costus, Balsa trees, Beef-steak Heliconia and more. We saw a lovely breeding plumage Bay-breasted Warbler, but two showstoppers moved in to claim our attention - Squirrel Cuckoo and Chestnut-headed Oropendola. Birding here is amazing; evidenced by two species of trogon (Violaceous and White-tailed), Rufous Motmot, and a Common Black Hawk. Walter spotted a 2-toed sloth, Norma's first. We got it in the scope and watched it slowly feed on Cecropia leaves. There were electric blue Morpho butterflies, wild papaya fruits in abundance, and a pair of Masked Tityra building a nest, emitting soft cooing calls to each other at very close range as they checked out a number of prospective holes. The fluid sounds of Bay Wren's calls made a lovely backdrop. Overhead we had great views of a Double-toothed Kite and WAY in the distance a Black and White Hawk Eagle soaring. Hernan talked to us about some of the medicinal plant uses but quickly changed focus when the bus came to a screeching halt for a beautiful Yellow-backed Oriole, which obligingly showed us his front and back as if modeling. "Better than the bird book" Don commented while our new birder Hani exclaimed at the color and Julie said, "you know me, I like the pretty ones.". We stopped again for blooming passionflower, then a Collared Aracari and a Long-tailed Hermit. Lunch was at the Arab Club, a bit odd for us at this time, but delightfully served, and we were warmly welcomed. They were getting ready for a bridal shower later in the day and the cut flowers were gorgeous. We had the typical Sancocho soup with yucca and corn, and very fresh, delicious Corvina. Walter saved a Banded Peacock butterfly lodged on the curtain as we left. A Savannah Hawk was Peg's find after lunch, warranting a quick turn around of the bus. Then it was on to Fort San Lorenzo, and incredible World Heritage Historic Site above the mouth of the Chagras River. Walter found a capybara hiding in dense cover in a wetland area - quite a find! We also saw a Crab-eating Raccoon walking down the road, and the Fort a Palm Warbler, new to Hernan and rare for Panama. The Moorish style Fort was most impressive. Here we saw cannons dating back to King Philip II and the 1500's. From the striking overlook at the cliffs, we saw surf of the Caribbean and Brown Pelicans flying about. Trenna and Lois climbed the narrow steps like they did this everyday. Norma found a spot to do some sketching and take it all in. Hernan regaled us with tales of Black-arsed Jack a very BAD pirate and presented a view of history few of us had ever thought about. We had to dash under an overpass that would shut with a huge tanker coming though - we had a train to catch and driver Manuel redefined the word stop - providing an impressive on time arrival at the Panama railway. Hani felt right at home as the motion of the train began. What fun to board this newly refurbished train, and ride the length of the canal, the width of Panama! We sat back in comfort and let the world and this marvel of engineering flow by. Snail Kites clustered at the crossing point of Gatun Lake. We arrived back just at sunset, a very full but fulfilling day.

Saturday, February 8 The Panama Canal
All aboard, we had time to bird while waiting to take on our required pilot. The captain took us for a spin out to the ocean, where we watched seabirds feed and Royal Terns balance on the channel markers. Immature Wood Stork and White Ibis fed on the shore while Laughing Gulls and Mangrove Swallow danced in the air. Norma sketched the skyline of Panama City. Soon we were on our way to the first of the locks. Trenna said, "Few things compare to my Saturdays at home with the New York Times crossword puzzle, but this is better.". Sipping coffee, the canal going by, watching frigatebirds in the sky.. We found comfortable places in the shade; glad none of us needed the "required double chairs please if over 190 pounds". and where was Walter? Spreading joy. Nancy was busy with her video, "this is so exciting.". Trenna remembered a relative who'd worked on the canal and Lois said "there's far more action than I anticipated". Don eyed all of the mechanics while Jan spotted Osprey, including one with a big fish. Short-tailed Hawks and Yellow-headed Caracara were some of the bird sightings. We passed through the Culebra Cut, and had a brief view of the Canopy Tower, our home for the next three nights. Passing through town once we were done, we stopped at the handicraft Mercado where even the non-shoppers had fun looking. Julie, Peg and Jean went right to the baskets and Walter found a beautiful replica in carved nut of a poison dart frog he had back home. Our drive up Semaphore Hill was fun - especially seeing everyone's first view of the big green tower and its impoundment from its radar days. Grace, who introduced us to life in the Tower and how it would work, greeted us warmly. "Is that all", Walter exclaimed, "We can live with this!" Indeed we could. Gracious hospitality, a lovely bar, great meals, the rainforest and its creatures right out our windows. Some went right up on the observation deck while others caught a quick nap down below. Guacamole and an artichoke-chicken dip, followed by chicken curry with all the trimmings and fresh veggies, delicious salad, spiced carrots comprised the evening fare. Peg got several to try their 'killer' hot sauce - wonderful stuff. Judy and Lois kept the table laughing while Don found a fellow fireman to chat with. A few ventured out with Hernan for a night walk, hearing the Great Potoo.

Sunday, February 9 The Incredible Pipeline Road
As the sun rose over the Canopy Tower we were off for our walk on Pipeline Road, knowing it would get hot as the day progressed. The hummingbird feeders were wildly active with White-necked Jacobin, Long-tailed Hermit and Violet-bellied Hummingbird. We drove a short way to Pipeline, stopping first at the Dynamite Dump, an old munitions storage facility. Birds were our dynamite, a veritable explosion. Crimson-backed Tanager, Scarlet-rumped Cacique, Barred Antshrike, two species of Saltator and Streaked Flycatcher. We had a quick look at Wattled Jacanas, adults and chicks feeding on marsh vegetation, perched up on their huge snowshoe-like feet. On to Pipeline, a legendary lowland rainforest hotspot. We were watching a secretive Dusky Antbird, when a member of the anteater family stole the show - the graceful Tamandua, busy extracting Aztec Ants from the leaves of the Canopy. Don spotted this one, much to the delight of Judy and Trenna who could not tear themselves away. We watched it at length in the scope and then got back with our birds - the mother lode having been discovered by Hernan, an army ant swarm. Hernan captured and showed us the huge claws of a warrior ant. Feasting on the insects put up by the ants were some of the rainforests most sought after birds. We watched a pair of Bicolored Antbird, obligate ant swarm followers. Everyone got great looks at the striking Spotted Antbird, and with Hernan's neat little laser pointer, the blue face of the Ocellated Antbird. Jan and Hernan spotted a pair of Green Kingfisher near a small stream below us further on - male and female perched and preening for excellent scope views. Nancy and Don found a Slaty-tailed Trogon. Small world of connections - Don and Jan talked to a young woman researcher on the trail; only to find out she was from their hometown! There they were, trading email addresses on the Pipeline Road as we all took a refreshing drink from the water vine Hernan cut open for us to see. Walter was ecstatic to find some fish - Jack Dempseys, Peacock Bass and one that looked like a small tarpon. Blue Morpho butterflies flew about like small electric floating dinner plates. On to Summit Gardens to see the Harpy Eagle education displays and an amazing video with footage of one catching a sloth. Back to the Canopy tower for lunch and siesta. Mid-afternoon Jan came up to get us - a troop of Howler Monkey was in at close range, several with babies. Several big males provided acoustics; oblivious to it all was a sleeping Two-toed Sloth. At 3:30 we climbed into the open-air vehicle and descended Semaphore Hill for the next adventure, Lois exclaiming "see what a nap can do!". We walked the Plantation Trail through Soberania National Park where deep woods provided shade and the many palms created an exotic feel. Purple-throated Fruit Crows called and fed above us. We walked in and sat by some pools of water and let nature come to us. We heard and had fleeting glimpses of Red-capped Manakins and to our delight a troop of Howler Monkeys moved in. We watched them for over 20 minutes - stretching, eating leaves, and navigating the maze of branches. Some of the babies used their mother's agile bodies as bridges while others hung by their tails, just watching. En route home we found a White-tailed Trogon and a Rufous Mourner, a mellow afternoon outing that was just right. A pair of Fasciated Antshrikes put on quite a show for us as we returned. Jean carefully worked through all the field marks of three species of Antwren. Then it was up the hill to the call of showers, appetizers, sunset and a lovely meal.

Monday, February 10 Canopy Tower / Summit Gardens
Early morning magic at the Canopy Tower started our day. Sitting up there quietly with cup of coffee in hand, we heard Great Tinamou, two species of Forest Falcon, three dueling troops of Howler Monkey. We were joined by Robert Ridgely, author of our field guides and premier taxonomist of South American birds. He generously found us a Blue Cotinga, one Jan REALLY wanted to see. It was a long way off, but in the scope was beautiful. Walter presented us with an awkward moment when he presented Mr. Ridgely with a massacred field guide (plastic ring bound, plates only). He said something to the effect of "but you've removed all my work." Only Walter could recover so tactfully and go on to a good laugh. Off we went to breakfast and a walk down the hill. The beauty and detail of the forest was exquisite. Slaty-tailed Trogon, Green Shrike Vireo and Squirrel complimented rather than rivaled the beauty. Hernan talked a lot about forest ecology, and we were lucky to find Red-naped Tamarins. Judy returned to her nest on the couch to view the world with a good book in hand. Lunch was chicken in coconut milk with a pasta pesto and fresh salad - tough life here! After siestas, we left again about 3:30, wanting to return to the ponds by the munitions factory. Grace had told us another group had spotted a Rufescent Tiger Heron and eagle-eye Nancy (already of Red-naped Tamarin and Crocodile fame today) found the bird bent in its characteristic focused stance. Alert, not moving at all, it was a juvenile bird in pinstriped attire. Peg put the scope on a gorgeous Wattled Jacana, when Walter cried out "babies". Days previous, on the bus, Peg had described these "fluff balls on snowshoes". Here they were - two adorable chicks trying to maneuver the tangled aquatic vegetation. At the corner we ran into a mixed flock of birds. An orange flowering tree was the magnet for Orchard Orioles, Crimson-backed Tanager, and Red-legged Honeycreeper. Nancy found a Baltimore Oriole and Julie and Jean a Variable Seedeater. We had quick visits from two knockout hummingbirds - Black-throated Mango and Purple-crowned Fairy before Julie found a real prize - 3 gangly Gray-headed Chachalacas. We had doves large and small, from Pale-vented Pigeon to Ruddy Ground Dove. This was leisurely birding now, with time for scope views of all. Some wandered off to look at flowers, while others worked on the fine details of Rusty-margined Flycatcher and Lesser Kiskadee. Jan spotted toucans on the way back up the hill, and Trenna called to the feeding sloth "watch out for Harpy Eagle". Here was the truck to whisk us back to shower, cold beer and snacks. Raul, the owner and creator of the Tower visited with us on technical aspects of the building and the incredible story of how he found and transformed it. Neat place!

Tuesday, February 11 Metropolitan Park / Scenic flight to David
We rose early again to beat the heat, and were off to Metropolitan Park, tropical dry forest within easy access of the city. We walked the Mirador Trail, but not before lingering quite awhile in the parking lot, marveling at the explosion of birds we saw as we exited the bus. Hani and Judy marveled as much at us as we did the birds - what we must have looked like all jumping from view to view as Peg and Hernan called out Yellow-crowned Euphonia, Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet (look at the tiny little bill). We saw a huge Caligo Moth, and watched a Bat Falcon, poised way up on the crane that the Smithsonian has to study the canopy. Trenna politely said "no thank you" when asked if she wanted her turn at the scope view of it shredding a mouse. Walking up the hill we found flock after flock with Ochre-bellied, Great Crested, and Streaked Flycatcher taking more solitary poses. We found Rufous-breasted Wren, Tropical Gnatcatcher, White-vented Plumeteer, Lesser and Scrub Greenlet, and Southern Bentbill. Don and Hani found another sloth at the Mirador, a Three-toed moving through the trees, posing for some great photos. At the top we found great views of the Canal, the city, and flights taking off overhead. Walter thanked Hernan for his earlier articulate, masterful synopsis of history - pre-Columbian to the present. Back in town, several went on a buying spree to purchase colorful fabric Molas. At lunch, we sampled way too many selections from Nikos, a popular cafeteria with few tourists and some really great selections. Trenna enjoyed a quiet moment in the bus with her cappuchino while others counted over 20 species from the bridge overlooking a tidal river near the old city. Most popular were Southern Lapwing and the scores of tuxedo-clad Black-neck Stilt. With scope we were able to compare Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs as well as Short-billed Dowitcher and Stilt Sandpiper. We stopped for photos at the King's Bridge - oldest bridge in the Americas. Norma could not resist a few moments to duck in the shop for one more mola shirt - modeled this night at dinner. On to the airport to catch our afternoon scenic flight to David - nice to see firs the locks and the bridge of the Americas, and then the whole cordillera from the air. Norma and Nancy commented we had now seen the canal from every direction - a really neat experience. We had a sunset drive to Boquette, where the fresh air felt good and we all needed jackets at the overview of the Rio Caldera and its picturesque valley. At our quaint hotel we had an outstanding dinner - fresh trout and filet mignon, followed by fresh lemon meringue pie. Afterwards several enjoyed conversation in the bar where a big fire was crackling.

Wednesday, February 12 Finca Lerida
This morning we met our local guides Chago and Eduardo who brought four-wheel drive vehicles for the adventurous road up to this cloudforest farm of the Collins family. Mist and light rain did not discourage the birds - there was another veritable explosion upon our arrival. Views of the brilliant orange Flame-colored Tanager were pretty incredible. For a while birds seem to hurl themselves into the complexity of the cloudforest canopy. We focused instead on Hernan who described the role of mist and humidity in creating conditions for moss, bromeliads, orchids and lush columns of vegetation clinging to every inch of the forest. Every shape of leaf possible was represented - all presented challenges to our finding birds! A Collared Redstart did put on a good show, and a lucky few got a glimpse of the rare Zeledonia, or Wrenthrush. We ambled up the trail, as it was a good climb. Common Tufted Flycatcher, Western Wood Pewee, Wilson's Warbler, Volcano Hummingbird and Green Violetear were encountered en route. Then the whole day was made worthwhile by an incredible Three-wattled Bellbird show. We all got scope views of a male close above us, his weird wattles dangling like threads of thick chocolate. A female flew across the whole pristine valley and lit for her inspection. Then another male, and another male - we just couldn't believe our good fortune. Soon we had also spotted Black-cheeked Warbler, Slate-throated Redstart and other small birds of this higher elevation. We spent time looking at plants, the matrix of green life so intriguing. We heard the calls of rare Highland Tinamou (Hernan had to hold Peg back from a cross country adventure!) and soon - the courting calls of Resplendent Quetzal. Just up the trail, Jean called out - I have a male in my binocular view! Everyone enjoyed long scope views of several males. We had entered a glade that felt magical, so much vegetation, and quetzals everywhere. The impressive, highly compressed rock of the Talamanca intrusion provided a great backdrop to a thin-ribboned waterfall. All too soon it was time to head our way back. We were rewarded with a nice lunch and fresh coffee and hot chocolate at the main house of the farm. We watched garden birds at leisure: Slaty Flowerpiercer, Stripe-tailed Hummingbird and more. Some wandered through town when we returned, others hopped online at the local Internet café. We had cocktails by the fire, and Hernan shared the 1961 adventure he shared with his parents, crossing the Darien Jungle with photographers from the National Geographic. What a life Hernan has lived - full of exploration. Jean and Nancy had found a mixed flock walking over to dinner and arrived breathless and hoping for quick i.d's. At dinner Hani and Lois kept up banter with Walter. What a pleasure, this country hotel and its lovely dining room. All slept well in the cool mountain air.

Thursday, February 13 Circling around Volcan Baru
Several wanted a break from the early mornings and enjoyed a good long sleep in. Others met on the porch early for coffee and a walk to the river, which proved to be quite productive. We had great views of the darling little Torrent Tyrannulet, as well as Black Phoebe and a Rose-breasted Grosbeak. Nancy found an Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush and Jean a gorgeous Blue-headed (Elegant) Euphonia. We returned to a wonderful breakfast of eggs, Swedish pancakes and good strong Panamanian coffee. Gathering our things, we traveled to the other side of the mountain at Cerro Punta, first taking a short detour into the drier scrub habitat near Calderon. Photographers were busy recording outstanding views of Baru Volcano looming above where mist seemed to play on the slopes all around - one of those beautiful days we will long remember. Later, driving closer to the volcano we found beautiful vegetable farms, fields of dairy cows, hillsides of cabbages, potatoes and more. People here were busy, living a productive life with a distinctive European flair. What a contrast to the lowlands. No wonder this is a Mecca for Panamian tourists as well. At lunch we filled up on pizza - tiny Hani admitted to four slices. Even Hernan buckled under for homemade ice cream for desert. After our siesta we were off to visit a coffee farm, and to bird at the Volcan Lakes. Back to town in search of machetes - not your usual shopping venture, but a fun way to interact with the local hardware store owners who seemed more than a bit amazed. Hernan instructed us in how to use them with real finesse, and found someone to sharpen them that very day.

Friday, February 14 La Amistad National Park
Today we walked the trails of La Amistad National Park in hopes of seeing additional higher elevation birds. We did quite well, the favorite being a most active Buffy Tuftedcheek. This mixed flock was more than a bit challenging - we were glad for great looks of the tame, and very still Black-capped Flycatcher that followed. The trail was great - we passed some HUGE native trees festooned with all kinds of epiphytes. We found several blooming orchids - a real treat. We met the local park ranger at a small visitor center, and all agreed we could have had more time here. After leaving the park we visited an orchid farm, beautifully organized around little flowing streams. They had local orchids and some real exotic ones ranging in size from a pinhead to the size of an open hand. A student volunteer gave us an excellent tour. Another great day - we returned home where we celebrated with fresh strawberries and ice cream.

Saturday, February 15 Morning in the Highlands / Return to Panama City
This morning we birded close to the lodge at a local canyon lush with vegetation and a great selection of birds. Our first find was noisy Gray-headed Chachalacas - this time right out in the open. At an amazing fig tree we spent an hour. Julie exclaimed at all the color - so many tanagers with every pattern imaginable. Somehow a Speckled Tanager next to a Green Honeycreeper next to a Scarlet-thighed Dacnis just worked for her, and for the rest of us as well. The only thing that rivaled the bird spectacle was the sight of a local family, dressed in native costume. They were shy, but so curious as to what we were doing. We shared our binoculars and they giggled and giggled. We walked up the hill and had some more local color - this time a young man arriving home from a long night of partying, clutching his fighting cock rooster. Another world. We had people go by on beautiful horses. We found singing spinetails, some new flycatchers, some new trees and shrubs in flower with their attendant hummingbirds. Okay, so we did have one more pizza lunch - it was all so good and we had to fortify ourselves for our return flight. Trenna fell for the Ani - one of her favorite birds of the trip. Then we figured out it when Judy noted it was familiar to her from the New York Times and her daily crossword puzzles! A real find were arid-land loving Brown-throated Parakeets posing close to the van for all to see. Julie announced "A+". Back to the lowlands via a flight from David. We returned to lights of the city and the canal, having come full circle. We had dinner at a great local restaurant, sitting on the patio in the warm night air, feasting on good fresh fish and steaks, downing a few margaritas. Another adventure ends, it was a good one! Until the next.

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