South Texas
April 3-11, 2007 - Trip Report
With an extension to El Cielo, Mexico, April 11-14, 2007

Tues., April 3 Arrival in Corpus Christi / Oceanside birding
A lot of the group arrived a night early in Corpus Christi and Gwyneth organized a morning birding venture to nearby Blucher Park, where the highlight was a Merlin eating its breakfast atop a pole. Tony met those at the hotel, while Peg greeted others arriving at the airport. At Indian Point, a small park at the end of the causeway crossing Nueces Bay, we started our birding in earnest. Everyone quickly learned the fine points of Laughing Gull anatomy, a comparison of Neotropic and Double-crested Cormorant, and the technique of discriminating among four different species of tern. Viewed from the boardwalk, the bay was very active, and we enjoyed seeing the different feeding strategies used by shorebirds, from the repeated bill motions of a Long-billed Dowitcher, to the probe-and-toss shovel action of a Ruddy Turnstone. We got excellent looks at American Oystercatcher and marveled at a Willet in full breeding plumage.

It was a fine day in which sunshine and puffy clouds set a shine on the water; and Brown Pelican and Osprey reeled in the breeze. We drove on north to Rockport, completed a few needed errands en route, and arrived with time to settle in. Several of us walked amid the arching Live Oaks of the hotel grounds, and found Black-crested Titmouse, a Black-and-white Warbler and a Scarlet Tanager to kick off the migrant show. We had dinner at an excellent local restaurant, where Black Drum was the fish of the day and local artwork decorated the walls.

Wed., April 4 Rockport Beach / Aransas National Wildlife Refuge
We woke to light rain and the sound of thunder, yet we had no realization of just how wild the weather would get. Driving out for our day, we experienced absolute downpours, with enough rain accumulating quickly to require pulling off the road for safety, and then, thankfully periods of calm amidst the tempest. In the tempest, Peg spotted our first Roseate Spoonbills, which appeared as an ethereal mirage; only episodic brief clearings and the van’s windshield washers made it possible to hone in on their magnificent magenta plumage. Peg found three of these beauties perched up on pilings, just after we’d spotted a flock of breeding plumage American Avocet. Tony soon called on the radio to report a flock of Black Skimmer, new for several of the group. We cheered as Maggie saw her life Black Skimmer by the dozen and we had a grand time watching these elegant members of the tern family courting, feeding and flying. With Tony’s teaching, we continued our study of Laughing Gull vs. Franklin’s Gull, and had a look at quite a number of shorebird species, including Marbled Godwits, feeding at close range. We managed to spend two soggy hours in splendor, despite the weather, and overall had a grand morning at Rockport Beach.

After a brief break back at the hotel, we headed out to explore the star attraction for the day – Aransas National Wildlife Refuge, established in 1938 and truly one of the crown jewels of our National Refuge system. We looked at exhibits at the Visitor’s Center, and peeked out through the rain to the pond and its resident Pied-billed Grebe. A White-eyed Vireo called loudly from the shrubs as we set our picnic out in the rain. We kept the bread and accoutrements dry under three umbrellas; we ate standing under the broad spreading branches of live oak, laughing at our predicament of trying to keep food dry in the rain. In the drizzle, an armadillo looked far more comfortable feeding than we were, but we got splendid looks at this oddly armored mammal. We drove further up the road towards the tower after lunch, stopping to identify various herons and egrets feeding in small patches of water along the road. We watched Pied-billed Grebe fold up and drop like small submarines – amazing. From the observation tower we found two Whooping Crane. Though sighted at a great distance, we could watch them feed – what a joy! Since few cars were around, we drove the tour road back to the entrance, and had good looks at mammals: White-tailed Deer, Wild Hog, and Raccoon. After freshening up back at the hotel, we went down by the bay to enjoy seafood and other delights at a local restaurant.

Thurs. April 5 Aransas NWR aboard the Skimmer / Goose Island / Mustang Island and the World Birding Center
Bright skies were a morning blessing, and we greeted the full orb of the sun rising above the harbor as a sign of a great day. Captain Tommy Moore was ready for us aboard the Skimmer; soon we were motoring out in fine style into Aransas Bay, heading for the Inner Coastal Waterway Channel with hopes of seeing endangered Whooping Cranes in the wild. In this endeavor we were most successful, finding three family groups and a pair, one at quite close range. It was wonderful to watch them feed, rise to alert positions, and in the case of one pair, raise their necks in courting display. Such elegant birds! In addition to this highlight, we found a great array of species, including scope views of Seaside Sparrow, amazing looks at Tricolored, Snowy and Great Blue Herons in breeding attire, and two five-day-old chicks of American Oystercatcher. Gwyneth marveled at close up views of Peregrine Falcon atop one of the channel markers, and Lynda rejoiced in a record 16 life-bird day. After the boat trip we enjoyed a picnic lunch at Goose Island State Park, where the pageantry of wildflowers was beyond description. Fields of Texas Bluebonnet mixed with Gallardia, a lovely blue lily, Indian Paintbrush, and Texas Globe Mallow. Laughing Gulls landed in the mix, searching for treats as they observed eating our lunch. Afterwards, we watched brightly colored Northern Cardinals at feeders and found our first collection of landbirds: Brown Thrasher, Yellow-throated Vireo, Common Yellowthroat, and a pair of Ladder-backed Woodpecker. From here we motored south to check out some shorebird areas and the amazing wetlands of northern Mustang Island at the World Center for Birding. The shorebird area held several plover roosts, and we had scope comparisons of Wilson’s, Semipalmated, and Piping Plover. Tony found a Long-billed Curlew and Peg pointed out a white-phase Reddish Egret. The light was lovely as we followed a boardwalk trail out into the wetlands of northern Mustang Island. We barely managed to get by the ‘Magic Tree’ that held our first group of migrant songbirds. Here we found Yellow-throated Warbler and American Redstart, and both Red-eyed and Yellow-throated Vireo. Further down the boardwalk we got close to a family of Nutria and three species of teal: Blue-winged, Green-winged and Cinnamon, and to our surprise, a Wilson’s Snipe. With the scope we had good views of Stilt Sandpiper, Solitary Sandpiper, and a Black-necked Stilt sitting on her nest. Roseate Spoonbill fed in the distance, and then flew over showing off their fine plumage. Everything was close and easy to see – this spot became a highlight for many. Tony lingered longer with half of our group, and they enjoyed a great dinner at the Crab-In en route home. After a full day, the others opted for a to-go meal from a local restaurant, and enjoyed dinner in the courtyard gazebo of our motel.

Fri., April 6 El Canelo Ranch / the Inn at Chachalaca Bend
We got an early start to reach the ranch of Monica Burdette, situated about 10 miles north of Raymondsville. Monica has run a birding-oriented bed and breakfast for years, and stewards some 70 pair of Ferruginous Pygmy Owl on her property. This year no pairs nested in her yard, but with luck they were courting and checking out nest boxes at her cousin’s home just a short distance away. We were thrilled by our views of the pair, with time to photograph and to study the differences between them. Scope views revealed intimate feather detail; the birds were tolerant but alert and we enjoyed our visit. Pat and Pete found friends in the other ranch guests that had joined us; the gentleman turned out to have been the first superintendent of Santa Ana National Wildlife and to have then lived near Patuxent Research Center in Maryland, a few blocks from their home. Seeing our delight in the owls, Monica invited us over to her mother’s, where we had great views of a roosting Barn Owl. Since we’d got out of the van to great views of a Great-Horned Owl, it was a three-owl day – superb! We also saw Couch’s Kingbird, Hooded Oriole, Veronica’s favorite, the Great Kiskadee, and almost everyone’s favorite – the Green Jay. With such vivid color and bold behavior, this last bird seemed to be a signature for our journey. We also had great views of a pair of White-tailed Hawk working on a nest, and brief views of Pyrrhuloxia.

We had lunch in Raymondville at the Boot Country Café that served up some great burgers and also had a great selection of locals for us to watch a bit of Texas life. We drove straight to the Inn at Chachalaca Bend, where we had a flurry of species: Black-bellied Ducks on the lawn, two pair of wild Muscovy Duck, Black-crowned Night-Heron, and near the entry gate, an Altimira Oriole. Everyone enjoyed a bit of free time, and a short walk for birding, which revealed a Sharp-shinned Hawk being chased by a Couch’s Kingbird. Tonight we enjoyed both an elegant catered dinner and camaraderie in this lovely setting.

Sat., April 7 Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge / Sabal Palm Reserve / Parrot Roost at Brownsville
Weather forecasters were predicting a full-day storm, so we were quite pleased with a bit of blustery weather that did not impinge upon our day until almost the moment we shut the van doors back at the hotel. We started the day with a beautiful chorus of sound, led off by Great Kiskadee, joined by Carolina Wren, Black-bellied Whistling Duck. They fixed us a delicious breakfast at the Inn at Chachalaca Bend, served in their cozy dining room. Black-bellied Whistling Duck come in to the feeders and gather in groups on the lawn! From here it is a short drive to Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge; in a small pond en route we were delighted to find and have scope views of a 100+ Fulvous Whistling Ducks. Migrant Osprey were down in an open agricultural field, keeping company with Turkey Vultures while resting up for the next leg of their great northern journey.

Driving in we spotted our first Greater Roadrunner; by alternating the vans in first and second position, all had good views. The wind was blowing, but did us a favor in revealing the white neck of ‘White-necked’ or Chihuahuan Raven. At the refuge headquarters, we did some shopping in their excellent book and gift store, viewed exhibits about the Whooping Crane and resident wildlife, and encountered our first singing Long-billed Thrasher, along with a good study of Louisiana Waterthrush in the small pond outside the viewing window of the Visitor’s Center. A blue variant of Green Jay joined a group of jays very close by at the feeders.

We had a great morning, which quickly stretched into mid-day, as we searched diligently for an Aplomado Falcon at Laguna Atascosa. Several of these birds had been sighted this week, including two pairs showing off courtship behavior, so we drove the tour route with high expectations. Advice to ‘check the yuccas’ became a challenge as we drove a 15-mile route through the yucca-dotted coastal plain. We had a couple of very distant promising views, which all turned out to be Crested Caracara or other raptors. We enjoyed seeing both mature and immature White-tailed Hawk, several pair of Harris’s Hawk, but alas, no sign of our target species. We did have great looks at Plain Chachalaca, Greater Roadrunner, Green Jay, Long-billed Thrasher and, near the end of the route, a Coyote.

Since we’d used up much of our time, we elected to have a quick tail-gate lunch in the parking lot, and head south for one of our favorite places – National Audubon’s Sabal Palm Reserve. Here one is immediately drawn into a sense of the tropics, walking down paths lined with palms and flowering shrubs with ancient-looking Plain Chachalaca strutting in front. White-tipped Dove and Green Jay were at the feeders; and Buff-bellied Hummingbird teased us with sound and quick fly-bys as they fed on hibiscus. Tony led us down a boardwalk trail along a quiet resaca where we heard the sound of Ringed Kingfisher right away. With luck it flew back up the open water channel several times, eventually perching for excellent views. Linda spotted a Least Grebe that was initially secretive amidst aquatic vegetation, but then came out into the open channel to preen with a great fuss and splashing. A bit further down the trail Susan pointed out a Least Grebe nest; in several minutes of watching we saw one adult incubating, the second come in, and during a nest exchange the eggs were exposed. This was an endearing sighting! We made a loop walk through blooming Fragrant Mimosa and Retama to end up at the blind, where we found a few more Least Grebe, Black-crowned Night-Heron, and several Black-bellied Whistling Duck.

Several of the group contributed to the local economy at the bookstore before we boarded our vans to head home, with one last stop – at a parrot roost in Brownsville. Peg spotted four Green Parakeets on the wing as we pulled into a parking area where dozens kept a raucous chorus going as they came in to roost in the protective fronds of large palms. Red-crowned Parrots were there as well, with both species vying for holes in palm trunks. Rain came in earnest, pushing us on our way; we arrived at our hotel tired but satisfied by a day of incredible birding. Barbecue was on everyone’s mind here in Texas, and proved to be a good choice for our dinner.

Sunday, April 8 Easter Sunday at Padre Island / Santa Ana NWR
We woke to driving rain, so Peg quickly put our field breakfast out in the lobby of the hotel. Fortified, we braced ourselves for this northern storm, hoping that rails along the boardwalk at the convention center on Padre Island would not mind the inconvenience of wet weather, and that migrants might be grounded by the storm. It was raining too hard to search for Aplomado Falcon reported recently on this stretch of road, so we continued over the causeway, checking quickly for new shorebirds, gulls and terns. At the convention center, we found dozens of songbirds absolutely exhausted from the storm and several that had died on arrival. A male Scarlet Tanager sat in a shrub a foot away from the walkway, never moving or even seeming to notice our presence. Peg had a Barn Swallow land almost touching her shoe; it lay quiet, and with Peg not moving an inch, it flew away after several moments. Indigo Buntings were coming in by the dozen, trying to light on the mangrove and saltgrass. Several made it to the grass lawn, and were feeding in earnest, joined by a male Varied Bunting, which caused quite a stir among the local birders. Warblers were close and visible: Blue-winged, both Myrtle and Audubon’s race of Yellow-rumped, Hooded, Kentucky, Tennessee and Nashville. At a small vacant lot on Sheepshead Road, we found a cluster of songbirds in the thick brush; a Yellow-billed Cuckoo was new for many, Bullock’s and Orchard Oriole put on a good show. Pat spied a Wood Thrush and another Louisiana Waterthrush – we had to tear ourselves away to warm up from the driving wind and rain, and return to Los Fresnos for our bags!

Lunch on Easter Sunday – where to go but that Texas haven, Whataburger! We got in just before a huge after-church crowd gathered, which proved to be great fun with little girls parading their nice dresses in the cold – record cold for south Texas, with morning temperatures of 39 degrees! Eating quickly allowed us to get to Santa Ana in a timely fashion, and we enjoyed the Visitor Center’s warmth, along with a good selection of books and crafts. Buff-bellied Hummingbird and White-tipped Dove gave us excellent views at the feeders; those of us that remained at the feeders got super looks at Olive Sparrow and Clay-colored Robin as well! Many of our group braved the muddy trails to venture out (in search of the Clay-colored Robin, which had gone to the feeders instead!). While the birding was remarkably quiet, we had a good walk through trees draped with Spanish Moss, a surreal environment unlike any other in the U.S. Several Broad-winged Hawks made short flights above the vegetation; back in the parking lot Tony put the scope on an Altimira Oriole. Peg showed Pat her life Hooded Oriole – a four-oriole day was fun! From the parking lot we spotted a kettle of about 50 Mississippi Kites, and spent several minutes watching them soar. Despite the weather, we’d seen a lot, and made the most of our day.

Mon., April 9 Anzandulas County Park / Roma Bluffs / Salineno / Chapeno
This morning we drove west, stopping at Anzandulas County Park along the Rio Grande. Recent rains had flooded low lying fields by the dam, and here we stopped to scope good numbers of Upland Sandpiper, feeding with Eastern Meadowlark, a Baird’s Sandpiper and a few Buff-breasted Sandpiper. We were chatting with several Border Patrol agents about geography of the river, when another birding group came by to tell us about a large flock of migrants feeding in one of the groups of large oaks. Under this Spanish Moss-draped canopy, we spent the next hour or more searching through the loose-knit flock, finding Northern Parula, Black-throated Green Warbler, Blue-headed Vireo, and Orange-crowned Warbler. We tracked down a Northern Beardless Tyrannulet male who proved to be most cooperative, singing boldly from exposed branches. As we studied him, Tony spotted a male Hermit Warbler, quite rare this far East, in leaves of the oak just behind the posing tyrannulet. All of our group had a good view of this bird in bright plumage, but rain was starting in earnest, and made for difficult viewing after these discoveries.

We decided to move on to the viewing platform at Roma Bluffs, a new birding location made available through the World Birding Center and the Lower Rio Grande National Wildlife Refuge. We parked alongside several of Roma’s historic buildings and walked out onto a large patio with a fine view of braided channels of the river, still rich with gallery forest riparian habitat – what a joy to see! We could look across to Mexico, watch traffic over the International Bridge, and more importantly, look down onto the tree canopy at a distance. Likely due to the rain letting up, we had superb sightings, with some dozen or more Red-billed Pigeon perched and preening and close to an equal number of Plain Chachalaca. While scanning, Peg spotted an Audubon’s Oriole, which stayed long enough for all to see in the scope. We also had fine views of an Altimira Oriole, and a first quick glimpse at a lone flying Brown Jay, so this proved to be an excellent stop.

Continuing west, we started to see Chihuahuan Raven on a regular basis. We stopped for lunch near the fire station going into Salineno and had fine views of both Vermilion and Scissor-tailed Flycatcher, and Lark and Vesper Sparrows. Driving on towards Chapeno, Gwyneth spotted a male Pyrrhuloxia perched up in a Mesquite. While stopping here, we spotted a displaying male Cassin’s Sparrow, Hooded and Altimira Orioles, and both Cactus and Bewick’s Wren. At Chapeno we had the good news that a Brown Jay had been coming into local feeders, but as it had just come and gone, we elected to go down to the river. In the late afternoon, after a full day, sitting at picnic tables watching Neotropic Cormorants swim in the river current and looking up to kettles of soaring Swainson’s Hawk was just the right pace. An Altimira Oriole was building a nest above us; Marlene looked up to spot a male Hooded Oriole as well. Scope views of these two colorful birds together were grand. Tony’s van headed home earlier, but quickly called back on the radio to tell us that a Brown Jay was back at the feeder; so we broke our reverie to pile back in the van and arrived up top just in time to see it perched and then fly away, uttering raucous calls as it went on to the neighbor’s smorgasbord. We visited with the owner of this quiet garden patio, hoping for another appearance by the jay, but we gave up around 6:00 pm to head for home. At Roma we enjoyed dinner at El Establo (‘the Stables’), where steaks and Mexican food provided the signature at the end of the day.

Tues., April 10 Santa Ana / Bentsen Rio Grande State Park
We started the morning at Santa Ana NWR, where we spotted Broad-winged Hawks perched in the tops of mesquites over a wide area, both outside and inside the refuge. Some would periodically fly out and return, as if anticipating the mass movement we would soon see. Long-billed Thrasher were singing as we walked the paved tram road; Marlene and Veronica took advantage of the narrated tram ride, in which they learned the names of trees, a lot of history, and had some great hawk sightings. We climbed the new Hawk Watch tower, where we miraculously had the platform all to ourselves. There was a beautiful adult Harris’s Hawk atop a dead mesquite preening at close range; we had superlative scope views. We could hear the Northern Beardless Tyrannulet in treetops below the tower; and a Tropical Parula gave off its characteristic buzz. Meanwhile we could see Broad-winged Hawks in restless flare-ups of flight. Mid-morning, kettles of Turkey Vultures and Broad-winged Hawks began to form. A real thrill was a lone Hooked-billed Kite that flew under them right over the tower, giving all a fine view.. After the initial lift-off, the intensity of hawk movements built for a good half-hour, giving us views of hundreds of Turkey Vultures, thousands of Broad-winged Hawks, and about a hundred Mississippi Kites – just a phenomenal wildlife spectacle. Returning to the Visitor Center, walking along the Spanish moss-lined tram road, we found a flock with Northern Parula and Great-crested Flycatcher. White-winged Doves flew overhead, and small kettles of hawks continued to spiral out of the trees. As we crossed the bridge over the irrigation canal next to the Visitor Center, Tony heard the call of Clay-colored Robin and most of our group got at least a glimpse in branches above the trail.

We took a lunch break back at our respective lodges, and then headed out for Bentsen Rio Grande State Park. The sun was coming out, and the heat slowed our pace a bit – what a contrast to our cold and wet days just gone by! Clay-colored Robin, Green Jay, and Altimira Orioles came in to the feeders sporadically along the first part of the road. We were not successful in our quest to find Green Kingfisher, but did have good looks at a calling Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, which Phyllis patiently had stood under, waiting for Peg to finally find it. We made a quick run to Luby’s Cafeteria for dinner (as Betty said, ‘Quintessential Texas’) and returned for the magic of dusk. Walking the road, we had good looks at Lesser Nighthawk feeding acrobatically overhead as Black-bellied Whistling Duck sped on by. We heard Eastern Screech Owl, and Tony’s soft imitation brought one quickly into view. At one point we had five birds in a small grove of trees; more distant Elf Owl were calling but not possible to see.

Wed. April 11 Departures and our extension - On to Mexico!
Several of our group had to leave today, but Betty Ann and Mary Kay came in as replacements for the missing ‘Chachalacas’, now the official name of our group. With the help of Saul Martinez and Angel Sanchez, our host and cultural guide for the journey, we crossed the border with ease and were on our way, passing through thorn-scrub habitat that was quite green after recent rains. We passed through small rolling hills, lots of grazing cattle, and some quick sightings of Couch’s Kingbird, Swainson’s and Broad-winged Hawks still pouring through, and Crested Caracara. Lunch was delightful, at the local Mescal Factory, where we had a tour of the distillery, a delightful set-up in which the high brick walls of the building were lavishly adorned with local art. One wall pictured religious art, another ceramic plates, another portraits of colorful people, and another sensuous creations all involving (and likely inspired by) mescal. In the dark, sweet smelling room that held barrels of the aging brew, an artist had drawn pictures of raptors on feathers that were quite remarkable. While we looked around, they prepared a fine meal for us: warm tortillas, fresh guacamole, spiced beef, frijoles and Queso Fundo, a delicious local cheese. Of course we had to try some of the mescal; with this and a full meal in our bellies, naps occurred as we continued our journey south. We woke to a brilliant view of the Sierra Madre Oriental, rising as a verdant background to Ciudad Victoria. The range is still richly forested here; as we drove south it became more complex with several ridges in view. Off to the east we saw Gunsight Mountain, and entered a region of limestone mesas and buttes. At the Guayalejo River, we stopped for some birding, and found instead a large crowd gathered to enjoy swimming in the cool clear waters. Despite the commotion, we found Groove-billed Ani, Masked Tityra, Vaux’s Swift, Plain Chachalaca, White-crowned Parrot and Green Jay active among the huge Bald Cypress and willow trees. It was a beautiful, inviting river, but with an hour’s drive still ahead we elected to press on to Gomez Farias, a quiet town up the mountainside and our lodgings for the next two nights. Here we enjoyed warm hospitality, two very tame Ferrugiinous Pygmy Owl, and fruiting trees that attracted Audubon’s and Altimira Oriole, Yellow-throated Euphonia, Black-headed Saltator, Masked Tityra, Clay-colored Robin, and a beautiful male Rose-breasted Grosbeak. Several of our group drew their chairs up for this fruit tree show, while sipping a cold beer or their cocktail. Others walked the road at dusk, where the call of Thicket Tinamou was alluring, and views of Red-lored Parrot were quite fine. Dinner on the patio was delicious, and after a long day we retired quite satisfied.

Thursday, April 12 Gomez Farias / Alta Cima
We woke early to the barking call of Mottled Owl, attracted in to feed by the small town street lights. Our local birding guide Estaban had seen a Tawny-collared Nightjar when walking down to meet us; and with his keen ears to assist, we picked up a lot of morning sounds and wonderful bird sightings at a roadside overlook close to the hotel. Brown and Green Jays here are equally common; flocks of White-crowned Parrot called loudly as they flew across the valley, two larger Red-lored Parrots came by as well. A male Audubon’s Oriole erupted into lovely song, while later we watched an Altimira Oriole intricately weave his nest under an overhanging limb. Calls of Thicket Tinamou were alluring as were the ‘hoot-hoot’ notes of Blue-crowned Motmot quite numerous below. We returned for breakfast of fresh tortillas, eggs with ham and beans, served with some of the freshest papaya imaginable. While sampling the coffee, Betty and Gwyneth discovered a female Wedge-tailed Saberwing, a large hummingbird attracted by flowers of the garden.

By 8:00 am we were boarding our 4-wheel drive vehicle to head up the hand-built road into the mountains, our destination after many stops being Alta Cima, a small community surrounded by fine views of the mountains. The birding along this route was absolutely exceptional and decidedly tropical; we found Social and Boat-billed Flycatchers, Tropical Parula (in abundance!), Squirrel Cuckoo, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, both Golden-crowned and Rufous-capped Warblers and Barred Antshrike. Several mountain species were mixed in, such as Flame-colored and White-winged Tanagers, Crescent-chested Warbler, and the endemic Bronze-winged Woodpecker. Elegant Trogons are common here, and well over a dozen birds tempted us by calling quite close to the road. We finally had one perch on phone wires above our heads for quite amazing views; later we were able to compare it well with Mountain Trogon, which perched cooperatively on limbs of a massive, bromeliad-clad oak. Every stop held visual treasures; Gwyneth’s Painted Bunting was mixed in with Blue and Indigo Buntings, and Blue Grosbeak was a treat. So was the corner where we had glimpses of a secretive Blue Mockingbird, which to our amazement uttered calls of the Tamaulipas Pygmy Owl in his mix of tunes! A dark-phase Short-tailed Hawk flew over, followed by an immature Great Black Hawk before our attentions were drawn to a calling Olivaceous Woodcreeper. While this one did not cooperate for views, it drew us into a sighting for some Thicket Tinamou – such is birding on the road to Alta Cima!

At the Hotel Pino, we enjoyed a short break, followed by shopping at the local woman’s cooperative, where hand-embroidered T-shirts displaying local birds were purchased readily by our group. Estaban pointed out the streak of a fly-by Azure-crowned Hummingbird, and at the start of the trail we selected after lunch, we found a mixed flock that revealed Flame-colored Tanager, Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Black-headed Grosbeak, Black-headed Siskin, and Wilson’s Warblers.

We came home to the smiles of our hosts at this small family-run hotel. They had cold beer waiting for us, followed by a delicious supper and a chance to catch up on our bird list that had 89 species to date. Estaban took us out to try for the nightjar and Mottled Owl With the latter, we had a bird come in and call loudly from a large spreading tree, close but secretive, and we had to be content marking ‘heard only’ for this one that night. All agreed that just being out in the lovely tropical night, with views of four moons of Jupiter in our scope was quite fine!

Friday, April 13 Gomez Farias / Road to Las Tecas / Bocamonte Boat Ride / Mante
Tony and Esteban braved the very early morning to find the Tawny-collared Nightjar, which finally came in for their inspection. It was a lovely morning, and we enjoyed another delicious breakfast served alfresco on the patio with a symphony of chacalacas in the background. We departed for another morning outing to the mountains, today on the road to Las Tecas, where we walked on a road with almost no traffic, between hundred-year-old mango trees and the lush crops of a small farm. Views of the mountains were grand, and with so many trees and shrubs blooming, we had to keep our eyes peeled. Birds were everywhere! Our list for the day would be some 92 species; in the morning they came in fast and furiously. Right out of the van, we saw White-winged Tanagers, both Altimira and Audubon’s Oriole, and Brown Jays, including juveniles with their bright yellow bills. Walking down the hand-built road, we heard Thicket Tinamou, and had great looks at Masked Tityra that proved to be quite common. Continuing on, we fulfilled Gwyneth’s great hope of seeing a Blue-crowned Motmot by finding six of these beauties perched in a tree still yet to leaf. We could hear them first, repeating hoots uttered in unison – wow! They lingered long enough for all to get scope views. Betty Ann saw an Audubon’s Oriole arrive, and Crimson-collared Tanager females came in as well. We continued to get a bit closer, and found a whole array of species, the most interesting being Ivory-billed Woodcreeper with its rich rust plumage and wild call. Elegant Trogon called from all directions – hard to imagine they could ever be so common!

We entered a quiet valley where a farmer worked trimming his future nopalitas (prickly pear cactus grown for food); quiet in every sense other than birdlife – here we found a spectacular Lineated Woodpecker, a pair of Rose-throated Becard building their nest, Canivet’s Emerald, Collared Forest Falcon calling loudly, and a Crane Hawk fly overhead. Several species were nest building – the Altimira Oriole, Boat-billed Flycatcher and Social Flycatchers were all busy collecting nest material. We had to tear ourselves away to collect our bags and head on to a promised boat trip from Bocamonte.

We descended in elevation to drive through more typical tropical dry forest, where Pink Poui trees were at their height of bloom. In a small park we met our boat captain and started on a short trip down the clear waters of the Rio Frio River. Huge Montezuma Bald Cypress arched over the waters; we soon found Pale-billed Woodpecker and an Elegant Trogon. Gliding down the waters, Estefan spotted a Sungrebe, and to our amazement we all got good views. Other highlights were a group of three Boat-billed Heron, and on a well-exposed tree limb over the river, a Bare-throated Tiger Heron. We had a Green Kingfisher flash by, but wanting better looks, we made one last stop at the Naciamento – birthplace of the river where extensive wetlands provide excellent habitat. To our delight we had close-up views of Northern Jacana, Roadside Hawk, and a bird new to our guide – Purple Gallinule. Several Least Grebe were swimming in the canal, and Tony spotted another tropical species – Variegated Squirrel, feeding on a fruiting tree. This place was magical; we left only to take a shower, freshen up, and be ready for a dinner prepared by the staff of Saul Martinez at the Guacamayas Campestre Resort in Mante – a feast featuring shrimp, fresh oysters, and really delicious chile rellenos. Over the bird list, we recounted our adventures – what a great journey south into Mexico!

Sat., April 14 La Servilla Canyon / C. Victoria Natural History Museum / Return
Saul prepared a lovely breakfast buffet for us and Estafan had a wonderful last morning planned for us for birding in a canyon of lovely sculptured limestone, with large cliffs on either side, reminiscent of the Texas Hill Country with its huge Bald Cypress, but here in Mexico, much lusher. Since we had tried for almost two weeks now to have good looks at Green Kingfisher; Estafan understood this and took us to a sure-bet location. Here in shallow pools of the river, our little green gem posed for perfect scope views. Watching it roam up and down this green oasis was lovely. Even more memorable, perhaps, was seeing Muscovy Duck in the wild. We found three right away, roosting in large branches of a red-barked Gumbo Limbo tree on a hillside forest of tall Senita cacti and other almost leafless vegetation. One flew right over our heads, another group perched in high branches on our side up the canyon. Looking up, we watched a steady stream of migrating raptors, Swainson’s and Sharp-shinned Hawks, as well an Osprey. As if to claim full ownership, the resident Bat Falcon perched boldly on a dead tree of the ridgeline, a great parting sighting for us as we headed north.

For a break along the way back to the States, the very modern natural history museum in Ciudad Victoria was fun for us to explore and most impressive in its high-tech, interactive approach. A large flock of Cedar Waxwing called from trees on the grounds; and en route home we had spectacular looks at a White-tailed Hawk at close range. The border crossing was slow, and the hotel they planned for us in McAllen unappealing, but these were small things, easily fixed another time. Our whole trip to El Cielo had been a joyful revelation of the Sierra Madre Occidental, and the Tamaulipas Bioregion of Mexico. We discovered just how easily we could find ourselves in the tropics. Our hosts were well-prepared and at each location we were greeted with delightful hospitality. Our species total for this short visit was impressive, 165 species; and we certainly can’t wait to return! In all we saw 230 species of birds, and had a grand time doing it! Our El Cielo extension logged in at 173 species.

Photos: all photos credited to Tony Beck, and many more of his images can be seen at: www3.sympatico.ca/beck.tony/; all other photos by Peg Abbott.

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