When we agreed to serve as Study Leaders for Peg's recent trip to Trinidad, we had no idea that we would be part of an invasion from an alien galaxy - or so it seemed. But there we were, on the beach, at night, in the coastal city of Grand Riviere. As soon as the sun set, dozens of 6 - 8 foot long, 1,000-pound behemoths crawled out of the Caribbean Sea, and made their way up the sandy slope. They moved with painstaking slowness, sort of like the zombies we have seen in many grade-B science fiction movies. We knew, of course, they were Leatherback Turtles (the largest marine turtles in the world), completing migrations from far off feeding grounds to the beaches of northern Trinidad. Only the red l.e.d. lights from our guide's flashlight revealed their true identity. In just over one incredible hour, we were able to witness their emergence from the ocean, location of a nesting site, nest excavation, the laying of about 100 eggs, nest camouflage, and their equally abrupt return to the sea. Leatherbacks can travel over 10,000 miles during a single year's migration. It's nice to know that the concept of "Naturalist's Journeys" applies not only to us tourists, but to the creatures we have come to see. Under the glow of moonlight, it was surely one of the most exciting wildlife experiences of our career as field biologists!
- Howard Topoff and Carol Simon
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Bird
song was bold each morning we woke as spring painted
Ohio with color. After an amazing morning at the Black
Water Swamp Bird Observatory Banding Station (www.bsbo.org),
where one of the field directors showed us some 15 species
of day-glow colored warblers in the hand, we headed
out to Magee Marsh to find them (and some!) in the wild.
Warblers were everywhere, close and in general ignored
our presence on the boardwalk. Over dinner at a delicious
Italian restaurant in business over four generations,
participant Al Balducci commented that "today was
warbler immersion!"
Peg
hosted a group from the Sawmill River Audubon Society
at the end of April, and they had a grand time exploring
the lush canyons and mountains of Arizona. Dave Jasper
shared highlight species of Portal, delighting all with
great sightings of Whiskered Screech and other small
owls. A real surprise came on our final day though.
We were at the lower of the Kino Springs Golf Course
ponds, looking at a Great Blue Heron that was nesting
where a Gray Hawk had the previous year. Its mate caught
our attention, standing in the middle of the water at
the far end of the pond. Behind Peg someone gasped,
then exclaimed loudly - BOBCAT! We called the other
van by radio to come up quietly, and all of us watched
as a very large, likely male Bobcat walked the shoreline
and then crouched to drink its fill - giving us several
minutes of viewing before it slipped back into the brush
- WOW. Next year's Southeast Arizona trip runs April
26-May 4th, and while we cannot promise a bobcat, everyday
in the Sky Islands is a wonder!
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Hearing
the clarion call of thousands of thousands of Sandhill
Cranes is an absolute thrill! We found late March (March
25-30) to still be very much Winter in Nebraska, with
the longer days and warmer temperatures making cranes
restless to wing their way north to their Arctic nesting
sites. Each morning these wary birds awakened on sand
bar islands of the river where they seek protection
from predators. Packed in body to body, they started
to move like a wave, out into the water where they preened,
stretched their wings and listened to add their voice
to the deafening cacophony. We were huddled in the blind
at Audubon’s Rowe Sanctuary (www.rowesanctuary.com)
where we watched pink light fill the sky, before a final
thunderous lift off of some 200,000 cranes. The following
evening, we returned to a blind that faced to the west.
To our delight, it was a calm, relatively warm night.
The birds came in over the period of an hour or more,
in groups of 20 – 200, all calling, circling and
finally coming down with legs extended like aircraft
landing gear. In the six years guide Peg Abbott has
done this tour, she has never had such a beautiful painted
sky as a background for photographs of this spectacle. Read
more about our adventures in the Trip Reports section
of our website, and next year, consider joining us!
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For
many, Antarctica is the trip of a lifetime, and for
12 from Naturalist Journeys this past Feb. 6-24, 2008
-- it certainly was! One simply cannot understand just
how remote and wild this far end of the globe is without
seeing it. Time on the Falkland Islands and South Georgia
was vital to those of us keen on seeing wildlife. On
a lonely farm of a private island in the Falklands,
we marveled at Rockhopper Penguins displaying. They
would drop their heads back to bray like donkeys, all
the while flicking their golden head plumes like punk
rock musicians. We visited King Penguin colonies on
South Georgia that stretched as far as the eye could
see, up a slope, with a background of an immense, incredible
glacier. These giants, second only to the Emperor Penguin
of ‘March of the Penguins’ fame, greeted
us with curiosity. They boldly waddled up to our zodiac
boats, surfed in adjacent waves rolling up on shore,
and for the next few hours captivated our attentions
with their calling, courting, and tending of young.
Time cruising amidst islands off the Antarctic Peninsula
gave us abundant time with whales – leaping Humpbacks
cleared the water completely while breeching, then moved
quietly next to the ship, where sunlight gave a Caribbean
glow to the reflection off their white pectoral flippers.
Minke Whales were curious enough to swim between and
under our zodiacs, so close we could hear them breathe.
Along with wildlife we were thrilled to see first hand
the tiny spot of land that Shackelton’s men survived
on for over 120 days on Elephant Island, as well as
Shackelton’s grave. Learn
more about our adventures in the Trip Reports section
of our website.
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The
sheer abundance of colors and density kept our small
group in the Mojave Desert (March 14-22, 2008) busy
with guide Greg Smith. Though off to a windy start in
Palm Springs, they found a sheltered spot and soon everyone
was on hands and knees taking in sweet flower scent.
In the week of exploring they walked amidst sand dunes,
dense cacti ‘forests’, playa lakebeds left
from the Pleistocene, salt creeks, old mining sites,
colorful granite boulders and on mountain trails near
Telescope Peak. Ladderback Woodpeckers, a Long-eared
Owl, and Costa’s Hummingbirds were some of the
highlight bird species. Read
Greg’s tales about the sex life of American
Kestrels and other adventures.